[FC] One Wire Alternators

[Chris & Bill Strickland]

Apologies, if anyone was offended, okay?  I really wasn't calling any 
individual a derogatory name, just that it strikes me as stupid when for 
whatever reason, the wrong name 'catches on' as a legit descriptive term 
among the general populace.  Couple that with my periodic lack of tact, 
and Viola!

So yes, the terminology is incorrect in many instances, I agree with 
y'all, so just don't use it --  BUT you also can get a true one-wire 
alternator in the 10-Si package (I've installed a number of them on "hot 
rods"), as well as in the other Si sizes if you really want to make 300 
amps with our Corvair fan belt.  So when folks talk about one wire 
alternators, there are only two connections -- ground and the battery.  
How can you go wrong?  Well, terminology, apparently ...

The standard Corvair 10-DN externally regulated alternator is not a good 
candidate for a a simple conversion, without changing to the 10-Si rear 
case.  A common alternator conversion trick with the externally 
regulated units was to use a Chrysler style regulator (two wires -- 
switched ignition in, field out -- looks simple, works great) and
the third wire for the Gen/Fan light.

This 10-DN style alternator needs three connections to work, Ground, B+ 
(battery), and F (field) -- it is this "field current that the regulator 
regulates, regardless of what type of regulator you may use (they all 
work, as long as the voltage is properly set to 13.8 - 14.2 volts)  
Three connections (including ground) will make it work, but you still 
have the idiot light wire for the Fan, and fortunately you have one more 
terminal, the R (relay)  terminal -- hook it up - it works the light 
just fine for most people.  Or use a factory regulator with factory 
wiring -- the diagram is in the 1965 Shop Manual, pg 6Y-5, fig 2c

The 10-Si units are a bit different -- the regulator is "internal" -- 
and you need to exchange the front case frame piece from a Corvair 
version of the 10-DN (or buy one from a Vair vendor) -- you still have 
the battery and ground to hook up, but then  it is different -- most 
cases label the other two terminals #1 & #2  --  #1 just needs a voltage 
signal (like from the idiot light) to excite the regulator, and  it 
should be ignition switched (like the idiot light), if you don't want to 
burn things up (or just hook it up hot and disconnect the battery when 
you park).  #2 is the optional voltage sensing terminal -- do not hook 
up an idiot light to this terminal.  Some of these guys have a third 
terminal for a tach hook up, which works fine if you have that tach. as 
oem equipment.

Bill Strickland