[NoVa-Corvairs] Follow-Up from Today's Meeting
Puglisi, Michael
novacc-list@corvair.org
Tue, 23 Nov 2004 11:52:54 -0500
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Darrin/Everyone-
Thanks for all the feedback on my parts list. I've added the oil filter,
o-rings, valve cover gaskets, exhaust gaskets, and gas tank seal to my list.
I have several new questions about part, etc. Concerning oil filters, the
one Clark's sells is a non-AC Delco and they're $9.65/ea. (part # C47X). Is
this what everyone uses? Are oil filters available at auto parts stores?
Same question for spark plugs.
Is there a gasket (or sealant or anything) that goes between the two halves
of the bellhousing? (I know about the bellhousing to block gasket).
Considering the broken pressure plate to flywheel bolt that caused so much
trouble, should I replace all 6 of these instead of just the broken one
(which Greg was kind enough to offer a replacement for). Clark's sells a
set for $7.30 (part C1143).
My gas tank seems to be empty though I know it wasn't purposely drained. I
don't think there are any leaks/holes in it. I'm guessing whatever gas was
left in there 18 years ago when the car last ran evaporated. If that's the
case, I'm guessing I have a bunch of gunk on the bottom now. Darrin- you
mentioned checking it out. How do I do that? Do I just remove the sending
unit and stick my hand in there and feel around? It looks like Clark's
sells a special tool to remove the sending unit. Is that critical or can I
make something else work?
Though getting the engine running is my first priority, I know I have some
brake problems. I seem to have a leak in the metal
line(s) towards the back of the car. Those metal lines seem to have
significant rust. I see Clark's sells a set of pre-bent lines for about
$100. I guess I should order them too, unless someone has another
suggestion. Does anyone know if those come with the rubber hoses too? I'm
guessing they don't but I should probably get those because they're likely
45 years old. Does anyone know if there's anything else I'd need to order
with those lines (couplers or mounting clips or anything)? If I'm replacing
those lines, does it make sense to do them while the power train is removed
for easier access?
I guess I also need to think about all the other brake components. Clark's
sells what they call the "ultimate" brake parts kit for a whopping $385. It
includes a new BMC and pretty much every other part other than the lines.
I'm certainly not interested in risking my life to save some cash but are
there any parts I should be able to salvage. The brakes seemed to work fine
18 years ago when the car last ran.
Last question (for now) - are there any special tools I need for replacing
the pilot bushing, axle seals, input shaft seal or crankshaft seal? I know
that last Saturday I was given some direction for replacing these but I'm
having trouble remembering.
As usual, thanks a lot for your help/advice. I know I'm much needier than
most. I can't wait to get the car on the road.
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Darrin Hartzler [mailto:dhartzler@ifc.org]
Sent: Monday, November 22, 2004 9:43 AM
To: novacc-list@corvair.org
Subject: Re: [NoVa-Corvairs] Follow-Up from Today's Meeting
Mike,
Looks good...but if you get the o-rings (not a bad idea as it seems it would
be easier to stand the engine up and do it on the ground) you will need
valve cover gaskets as well as exhaust donuts (heads to exhaust logs..six
total). This also entails adjusting the valves after replacing the seals,
which adds another step. This is not difficult, but could be stressful if
you have not done it before. Best to get everything you think you may need
than stopping and starting because an inexpensive gasket not being on-hand.
Maybe skip the o-rings, get it running and see if it leaks. For the amount
of driving you will do, maybe a few drips in the driveway are OK.
Actually, you will need exhaust gaskets from the logs to the tailpipe in any
case (two for this)...you already had the exhaust removed, so it did not
occur to me to add it to the list til now. Don't forget oil filter as well.
Review all the other things you removed before we got there to see if there
are others that should be replaced.
Also, the gas tank. How long has it been sitting? Since you said it was
dry, it may be fine, but you may want to order the seal so you can check it.
Also cheap.
Darrin
-----------------------------------------
Darrin R. Hartzler
AnnePugs@aol.com
Sent by: novacc-list-admin@corvair.org
11/20/2004 10:41 PM
Please respond to novacc-list
To: novacc-list@corvair.org
cc:
Subject: [NoVa-Corvairs] Follow-Up from Today's Meeting
I want to again thank everyone who helped out with my car today. Needless
to say, I'm pretty darn pleased with the turn of events.
I've spent some time on Clark's website looking for the parts that were
recommended to me. I was hoping somebody could confirm that I'm about to
order the right stuff since Clark's uses some slightly different names for
some items.
Here's a chart with the part name I wrote down, what Clark's calls it (if
I'm right), their part number, and their price.
What I wrote What Clark Calls it Clark's Part #
Clark's Price
Pilot Bushing Clutch Pilot Bushing C701
$9.10
Axle Stub Seals Drive Shaft Seals C496
$4.65/ea.
(in transaxle, 2 reqd)
Input Shaft Seal Throwout Bearing Shaft Seal C494
$3.95
(nose of transaxle)
Fan Belt Fan Belt C5790
(Clark's Ultimate) $10.90
C8704 (Otto Super Belt) $12.80
Oil Pan Gasket Cork Oil Pan Gasket C199
$5.95
"Best Quality"
Crankshaft Seal Bellhousing Crank Seal C493 (polyacrylate)
$9.95
or
C493V (Viton) $13.90
*Clark's say I also need a new Bellhousing gasket if I'm replacing
the Crank Seal - Part # C4628 - $3.15
So, my questions are am I buying the right parts and which of the 2 kinds of
fan belts
and crank seals should I get. Also, can anyone think of anything I've
forgotten?
(For those who weren't able to make it today, the engine is out and its
separated from
the transaxle).
Thanks a lot for the input.
-Mike
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<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2>Darrin/Everyone-</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Thanks
for all the feedback on my parts list. I've added the oil filter, o-rings,
valve cover gaskets, exhaust gaskets, and gas tank seal to my
list.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>I have
several new questions about part, etc. Concerning oil filters, the one
Clark's sells is a non-AC Delco and they're $9.65/ea. (part # C47X).
</FONT></SPAN><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2>Is this what everyone uses? </FONT></SPAN><SPAN
class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Are oil
filters available at auto parts stores? Same question for spark
plugs.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Is
there a gasket (or sealant or anything) that goes between the two halves of the
bellhousing? (I know about the bellhousing to block gasket).
</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2>Considering the broken pressure plate to flywheel bolt that caused so
much trouble, should I replace all 6 of these instead of just the broken one
(which Greg was kind enough to offer a replacement for). Clark's sells a
set for $7.30 (part C1143). </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>My gas
tank seems to be empty though I know it wasn't purposely drained. I
don't think there are any leaks/holes in it. I'm guessing whatever gas was
left in there 18 years ago when the car last ran evaporated. If that's the
case, I'm guessing I have a bunch of gunk on the bottom now. Darrin- you
mentioned checking it out. How do I do that? Do I just remove the
sending unit and stick my hand in there and feel around? It looks like
Clark's sells a special tool to remove the sending unit. Is that
critical or can I make something else work? </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Though
getting the engine running is my first priority, I know I have some brake
problems. I seem to have a leak in the metal </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2>line(s) towards the back of the car. Those metal lines seem to
have significant rust. I see Clark's sells a set of pre-bent lines for
about $100. I guess I should order them too, unless someone has another
suggestion. Does anyone know if those come with the rubber hoses
too? I'm guessing they don't but I should probably get those because
they're likely 45 years old. Does anyone know if there's anything else I'd
need to order with those lines (couplers or mounting clips or anything)?
If I'm replacing those lines, does it make sense to do them while the power
train is removed for easier access?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>I
guess I also need to think about all the other brake components.
Clark's sells what they call the "ultimate" brake parts kit for a whopping
$385. It includes a new BMC and pretty much every other part other than
the lines. I'm certainly not interested in risking my life to save
some cash but are there any parts I should be able to salvage.
The brakes seemed to work fine 18 years ago when the car last ran.
</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Last
question (for now) - are there any special tools I need for replacing the pilot
bushing, axle seals, input shaft seal or crankshaft seal? I know that last
Saturday I was given some direction for replacing these but I'm having trouble
remembering. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>As
usual, thanks a lot for your help/advice. I know I'm much needier than
most. I can't wait to get the car on the road.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2>-Mike</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004> </SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=612124015-23112004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader lang=en-us dir=ltr align=left><FONT
face=Tahoma size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Darrin Hartzler
[mailto:dhartzler@ifc.org] <BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, November 22, 2004 9:43
AM<BR><B>To:</B> novacc-list@corvair.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re:
[NoVa-Corvairs] Follow-Up from Today's Meeting<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><BR><FONT
face=sans-serif size=2>Mike,</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT face=sans-serif size=2>Looks
good...but if you get the o-rings (not a bad idea as it seems it would be
easier to stand the engine up and do it on the ground) you will need valve
cover gaskets as well as exhaust donuts (heads to exhaust logs..six total).
This also entails adjusting the valves after replacing the seals, which
adds another step. This is not difficult, but could be stressful if you
have not done it before. Best to get everything you think you may need
than stopping and starting because an inexpensive gasket not being on-hand.
Maybe skip the o-rings, get it running and see if it leaks. For
the amount of driving you will do, maybe a few drips in the driveway are
OK.</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT face=sans-serif size=2>Actually, you will need
exhaust gaskets from the logs to the tailpipe in any case (two for this)...you
already had the exhaust removed, so it did not occur to me to add it to the
list til now. Don't forget oil filter as well.</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT
face=sans-serif size=2>Review all the other things you removed before we got
there to see if there are others that should be replaced.</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT
face=sans-serif size=2>Also, the gas tank. How long has it been sitting?
Since you said it was dry, it may be fine, but you may want to order the
seal so you can check it. Also cheap.</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT
face=sans-serif
size=2>Darrin<BR><BR>-----------------------------------------<BR>Darrin R.
Hartzler<BR></FONT><BR><BR><BR>
<TABLE width="100%">
<TBODY>
<TR vAlign=top>
<TD>
<TD><FONT face=sans-serif size=1><B>AnnePugs@aol.com</B></FONT>
<BR><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>Sent by:
novacc-list-admin@corvair.org</FONT>
<P><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>11/20/2004 10:41 PM</FONT> <BR><FONT
face=sans-serif size=1>Please respond to novacc-list</FONT> <BR></P>
<TD><FONT face=Arial size=1> </FONT><BR><FONT
face=sans-serif size=1> To:
novacc-list@corvair.org</FONT> <BR><FONT face=sans-serif
size=1> cc:
</FONT> <BR><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>
Subject: [NoVa-Corvairs] Follow-Up
from Today's Meeting</FONT></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR><BR><BR><FONT face=Arial
size=2>I want to again thank everyone who helped out with my car today.
Needless to say, I'm pretty darn pleased with the turn of events.</FONT>
<BR><FONT face=Arial size=2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>I've
spent some time on Clark's website looking for the parts that were recommended
to me. I was hoping somebody could confirm that I'm about to order the
right stuff since Clark's uses some slightly different names for some
items.</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial size=2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial
size=2>Here's a chart with the part name I wrote down, what Clark's calls it
(if I'm right), their part number, and their price. </FONT><BR><FONT
face=Arial size=2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial size=2><U>What I wrote
What Clark Calls it
Clark's Part #
Clark's Price</U></FONT>
<BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>Pilot Bushing
Clutch Pilot Bushing
C701
$9.10</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial
size=2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>Axle Stub Seals
Drive Shaft Seals
C496
$4.65/ea.</FONT>
<BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>(in transaxle, 2 reqd)</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial
size=2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>Input Shaft Seal
Throwout Bearing Shaft Seal C494
$3.95</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>(nose of
transaxle)</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial size=2> </FONT> <BR><FONT
face=Arial size=2>Fan Belt
Fan Belt
C5790 (Clark's
Ultimate) $10.90</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>
C8704 (Otto Super Belt) $12.80</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial
size=2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>Oil Pan Gasket
Cork Oil Pan Gasket
C199
$5.95</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial
size=2>
"Best Quality"</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial
size=2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>Crankshaft Seal
Bellhousing Crank Seal
C493 (polyacrylate) $9.95</FONT> <BR><FONT
face=Arial size=2>
or C493V (Viton)
$13.90 </FONT><BR><FONT face=Arial
size=2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>*Clark's say I also need a
new Bellhousing gasket if I'm replacing </FONT><BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>the
Crank Seal - Part # C4628 - $3.15</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial
size=2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>So, my questions are am I
buying the right parts and which of the 2 kinds of fan belts</FONT> <BR><FONT
face=Arial size=2>and crank seals should I get. Also, can anyone think
of anything I've forgotten?</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>(For those who
weren't able to make it today, the engine is out and its separated from
</FONT><BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>the transaxle).</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial
size=2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>Thanks a lot for the input.
</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial size=2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial
size=2>-Mike</FONT> <BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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