[NoVa-Corvairs] Follow-Up from Today's Meeting
ALBERT BIRKS
novacc-list@corvair.org
Thu, 25 Nov 2004 22:04:08 -0500
------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C4D33A.AFB8BC20
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Mike: I put my comments in RED. Wow, you are really looking for work, g=
ood luck.
Al Birks
----- Original Message -----
From: Puglisi, Michael
Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2004 11:54 AM
To: 'novacc-list@corvair.org'
Subject: RE: [NoVa-Corvairs] Follow-Up from Today's Meeting
Darrin/Everyone-
Thanks for all the feedback on my parts list. I've added the oil filter,=
o-rings, valve cover gaskets, exhaust gaskets, and gas tank seal to my l=
ist.
I have several new questions about part, etc. Concerning oil filters, th=
e one Clark's sells is a non-AC Delco and they're $9.65/ea. (part # C47X)=
Is this what everyone uses? Are oil filters available at auto parts s=
tores? Same question for spark plugs.
Is there a gasket (or sealant or anything) that goes between the two halv=
es of the bellhousing? No (I know about the bellhousing to block gasket).=
=20
Considering the broken pressure plate to flywheel bolt that caused so muc=
h trouble, should I replace all 6 of these instead of just the broken one=
(which Greg was kind enough to offer a replacement for). Clark's sells =
a set for $7.30 (part C1143). Yes, it is very important to do that. Als=
o, get hold of a torque wrench that is calibrated in foot-pounds. They n=
eed to be torqued up (tightened) in order to get the correct grip on the =
flywheel. Since the old ones were overtorqued, they are all suspect! Al=
Birks =20
My gas tank seems to be empty though I know it wasn't purposely drained. =
I don't think there are any leaks/holes in it. I'm guessing whatever ga=
s was left in there 18 years ago when the car last ran evaporated. If th=
at's the case, I'm guessing I have a bunch of gunk on the bottom now. Da=
rrin- you mentioned checking it out. How do I do that? Do I just remove=
the sending unit and stick my hand in there and feel around? It looks l=
ike Clark's sells a special tool to remove the sending unit. Is that cri=
tical or can I make something else work? Michael: this can be handled s=
eparately. Chances are that the tank is OK as is. Ultimately you might l=
ike to do that work, replacing all of the rubber sections of the filler p=
ipe and gas line up to the engine. Al
Though getting the engine running is my first priority, I know I have som=
e brake problems. I seem to have a leak in the metal =20
line(s) towards the back of the car. Those metal lines seem to have sign=
ificant rust. I see Clark's sells a set of pre-bent lines for about $100=
I guess I should order them too, unless someone has another suggestion=
This is important and is most easily completed with engine removed! D=
o it now. Does anyone know if those come with the rubber hoses too? Ord=
er separately. I'm guessing they don't but I should probably get those b=
ecause they're likely 45 years old. Does anyone know if there's anything=
else I'd need to order with those lines (couplers or mounting clips or a=
nything)? If I'm replacing those lines, does it make sense to do them wh=
ile the power train is removed for easier access? Yes.
I guess I also need to think about all the other brake components. Clark=
's sells what they call the "ultimate" brake parts kit for a whopping $38=
5. It includes a new BMC and pretty much every other part other than the=
lines. I'm certainly not interested in risking my life to save some cas=
h but are there any parts I should be able to salvage. The brakes seemed=
to work fine 18 years ago when the car last ran. Once you get the engin=
e running and brake lines replaced, then work on the brakes. You will hav=
e lots of air to bleed out at the time you refill the brake system. I wo=
uld guess that a new master cylinder and new wheel
cylinders will be needed. The mechanical parts need to be inspected to s=
ee if they are badly rusted and if so, replace the ones that are needed. =
=20
Last question (for now) - are there any special tools I need for replacin=
g the pilot bushing, Clarks should have one of these if the local members=
can't come up with one. You will also need a paxle seals, input shaft se=
al or crankshaft seal? I know that last Saturday I was given some direct=
ion for replacing these but I'm having trouble remembering. =20
As usual, thanks a lot for your help/advice. I know I'm much needier tha=
n most. I can't wait to get the car on the road.
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Darrin Hartzler [mailto:dhartzler@ifc.org] =20
Sent: Monday, November 22, 2004 9:43 AM
To: novacc-list@corvair.org
Subject: Re: [NoVa-Corvairs] Follow-Up from Today's Meeting
Mike, =20
Looks good...but if you get the o-rings (not a bad idea as it seems it wo=
uld be easier to stand the engine up and do it on the ground) you will ne=
ed valve cover gaskets as well as exhaust donuts (heads to exhaust logs..=
six total). This also entails adjusting the valves after replacing the s=
eals, which adds another step. This is not difficult, but could be stres=
sful if you have not done it before. Best to get everything you think yo=
u may need than stopping and starting because an inexpensive gasket not b=
eing on-hand. Maybe skip the o-rings, get it running and see if it leaks=
For the amount of driving you will do, maybe a few drips in the drivew=
ay are OK. =20
Actually, you will need exhaust gaskets from the logs to the tailpipe in =
any case (two for this)...you already had the exhaust removed, so it did =
not occur to me to add it to the list til now. Don't forget oil filter a=
s well. =20
Review all the other things you removed before we got there to see if the=
re are others that should be replaced. =20
Also, the gas tank. How long has it been sitting? Since you said it was=
dry, it may be fine, but you may want to order the seal so you can check=
it. Also cheap. =20
Darrin
-----------------------------------------
Darrin R. Hartzler
AnnePugs@aol.com =20
Sent by: novacc-list-admin@corvair.org =20
11/20/2004 10:41 PM =20
Please respond to novacc-list =20
=20
To: novacc-list@corvair.org =20
cc: =20
Subject: [NoVa-Corvairs] Follow-Up from Today's Meeting
I want to again thank everyone who helped out with my car today. Needles=
s to say, I'm pretty darn pleased with the turn of events. =20
=20
I've spent some time on Clark's website looking for the parts that were r=
ecommended to me. I was hoping somebody could confirm that I'm about to =
order the right stuff since Clark's uses some slightly different names fo=
r some items. =20
=20
Here's a chart with the part name I wrote down, what Clark's calls it (if=
I'm right), their part number, and their price. =20
=20
What I wrote What Clark Calls it Clark's Part #=
Clark's Price =20
Pilot Bushing Clutch Pilot Bushing C701 =
$9.10 =20
=20
Axle Stub Seals Drive Shaft Seals C496 =
$4.65/ea. =20
(in transaxle, 2 reqd) =20
=20
Input Shaft Seal Throwout Bearing Shaft Seal C494 =
$3.95 =20
(nose of transaxle) =20
=20
Fan Belt Fan Belt C5790 =
(Clark's Ultimate) $10.90 =20
=
C8704 (Otto Super Belt) $12.80 =20
=20
Oil Pan Gasket Cork Oil Pan Gasket C199 =
$5.95 =20
"Best Quality" =20
=20
Crankshaft Seal Bellhousing Crank Seal C493 (polyacryla=
te) $9.95 =20
or=
C493V (Viton) $13.90 =20
=20
*Clark's say I also need a new Bellhousing gasket if I'm replacing =20
the Crank Seal - Part # C4628 - $3.15 =20
=20
So, my questions are am I buying the right parts and which of the 2 kinds=
of fan belts =20
and crank seals should I get. Also, can anyone think of anything I've fo=
rgotten? =20
(For those who weren't able to make it today, the engine is out and its s=
eparated from =20
the transaxle). =20
=20
Thanks a lot for the input. =20
=20
-Mike =20
------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C4D33A.AFB8BC20
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Mike: <F=
ONT color=3D#ff3366>I put my comments in RED. Wow, you are really l=
ooking for work, good luck</FONT>.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Al Birks<=
/DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-=
LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT=
: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV=
> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>F=
rom:</B> Puglisi, Michael</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:<=
/B> Tuesday, November 23, 2004 11:54 AM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Ar=
ial"><B>To:</B> 'novacc-list@corvair.org'</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt =
Arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: [NoVa-Corvairs] Follow-Up from Today's Meeting=
</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4937.800" name=3DGE=
NERATOR> <DIV><SPAN class=3D612124015-23112004><FONT face=3DArial color=3D=
#0000ff size=3D2>Darrin/Everyone-</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D=
612124015-23112004><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2></FONT></S=
PAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D612124015-23112004><FONT face=3DArial=
color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>Thanks for all the feedback on my parts list.&n=
bsp; I've added the oil filter, o-rings, valve cover gaskets, exhaust gas=
kets, and gas tank seal to my list.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D=
612124015-23112004><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2></FONT></S=
PAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D612124015-23112004><FONT face=3DArial=
color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>I have several new questions about part, etc.&n=
bsp; Concerning oil filters, the one Clark's sells is a non-AC Delco and&=
nbsp;they're $9.65/ea. (part # C47X). </FONT></SPAN><SPAN class=3D6=
12124015-23112004><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>Is this wha=
t everyone uses? </FONT></SPAN><SPAN class=3D612124015-2311200=
4><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>Are oil filters availa=
ble at auto parts stores? Same question for spark plugs.</FONT></SP=
AN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D612124015-23112004><FONT face=3DArial color=3D=
#0000ff size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D612124015-=
23112004><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>Is there a gasket (o=
r sealant or anything) that goes between the two halves of the bellhousin=
g? <FONT color=3D#ff3366>No</FONT> (I know about the bellhousing to =
block gasket). </FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D612124015-23=
112004><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </=
DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D612124015-23112004><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#00=
00ff size=3D2>Considering the broken pressure plate to flywheel bolt that=
caused so much trouble, should I replace all 6 of these instead of just =
the broken one (which Greg was kind enough to offer a replacement for).&n=
bsp; Clark's sells a set for $7.30 (part C1143). <FONT color=3D#ff3=
366>Yes, it is very important to do that. Also, get hold of a torqu=
e wrench that is calibrated in foot-pounds. They need to be torqued=
up (tightened) in order to get the correct grip on the flywheel.&nb=
sp; Since the old ones were overtorqued, they are all suspect! Al B=
irks </FONT></FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D612124015-231120=
04><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>=
<DIV><SPAN class=3D612124015-23112004><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff=
size=3D2>My gas tank seems to be empty though I know it wasn't purp=
osely drained. I don't think there are any leaks/holes in it. =
I'm guessing whatever gas was left in there 18 years ago when the car la=
st ran evaporated. If that's the case, I'm guessing I have a bunch =
of gunk on the bottom now. Darrin- you mentioned checking it out.&n=
bsp; How do I do that? Do I just remove the sending unit and stick =
my hand in there and feel around? It looks like Clark's sells a&nbs=
p;special tool to remove the sending unit. Is that critical or=
can I make something else work? <FONT color=3D#ff3366>Michael:&nbs=
p; this can be handled separately. Chances are that the tank is OK =
as is. Ultimately you might like to do that work, replacing all of the ru=
bber sections of the filler pipe and gas line up to the engine. Al</FONT>=
</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D612124015-23112004><FONT face=3DA=
rial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=
=3D612124015-23112004><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>Though =
getting the engine running is my first priority, I know I have some brake=
problems. I seem to have a leak in the metal </FONT></SPAN></=
DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D612124015-23112004><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#00=
00ff size=3D2>line(s) towards the back of the car. Those metal=
lines seem to have significant rust. I see Clark's sells a set of =
pre-bent lines for about $100. I guess I should order them too, unl=
ess someone has another suggestion. <FONT color=3D#ff3366>This is im=
portant and is most easily completed with engine removed! =
Do it now. </FONT> Does anyone know if those come with =
the rubber hoses too? <FONT color=3D#ff3366>Order separately. </FONT=
> I'm guessing they don't but I should probably get those because th=
ey're likely 45 years old. Does anyone know if there's anything els=
e I'd need to order with those lines (couplers or mounting clips or anyth=
ing)? If I'm replacing those lines, does it make sense to do them w=
hile the power train is removed for easier access?<FONT color=3D#ff3366> =
Yes.</FONT></FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D612124015-23112004><FO=
NT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV>=
<SPAN class=3D612124015-23112004><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D=
2>I guess I also need to think about all the other brake components.=
Clark's sells what they call the "ultimate" brake parts kit for a =
whopping $385. It includes a new BMC and pretty much every other pa=
rt other than the lines. I'm certainly not interested in riski=
ng my life to save some cash but are there any parts I should b=
e able to salvage. The brakes seemed to work fine 18 years ago when=
the car last ran. <FONT color=3D#ff3366>Once you get the engine ru=
nning and brake lines replaced, then work on the brakes. You will have lo=
ts of air to bleed out at the time you refill the brake system. =
; I would guess that a new master cylinder and new wheel</FONT></FONT></S=
PAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D612124015-23112004><FONT face=3DArial color=
=3D#ff3366>cylinders will be needed. The mechanical parts need=
to be inspected to see if they are badly rusted and if so, replace =
the ones that are needed. </FONT> </SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN cla=
ss=3D612124015-23112004><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2></FON=
T></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D612124015-23112004><FONT face=3D=
Arial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>Last question (for now) - are there any sp=
ecial tools I need for replacing the pilot bushing, <FONT color=3D#ff3366=
>Clarks should have one of these if the local members can't come up with =
one</FONT>. You will also need a paxle seals, input shaft seal or cr=
ankshaft seal? I know that last Saturday I was given some direction=
for replacing these but I'm having trouble remembering. </FONT></S=
PAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D612124015-23112004><FONT face=3DArial color=
=3D#0000ff size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D6121240=
15-23112004><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>As usual, thanks =
a lot for your help/advice. I know I'm much needier than most. =
; I can't wait to get the car on the road.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN=
class=3D612124015-23112004><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><=
/FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D612124015-23112004><FONT fac=
e=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>-Mike</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN c=
lass=3D612124015-23112004></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D61212401=
5-23112004></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D612124015-23112004><FON=
T face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><=
SPAN class=3D612124015-23112004><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D=
2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D612124015-23112004><FONT =
face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SP=
AN class=3D612124015-23112004><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=
></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D612124015-23112004><FONT f=
ace=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <BLOCKQUO=
TE style=3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV></DIV> <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHe=
ader lang=3Den-us dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><FONT face=3DTahoma size=3D2>---=
--Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Darrin Hartzler [mailto:dhartzler=
@ifc.org] <BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, November 22, 2004 9:43 AM<BR><B>To:</B=
> novacc-list@corvair.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [NoVa-Corvairs] Follow-U=
p from Today's Meeting<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><BR><FONT face=3Dsans-serif si=
ze=3D2>Mike,</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT face=3Dsans-serif size=3D2>Looks good..=
but if you get the o-rings (not a bad idea as it seems it would be easie=
r to stand the engine up and do it on the ground) you will need valve cov=
er gaskets as well as exhaust donuts (heads to exhaust logs..six total). =
This also entails adjusting the valves after replacing the seals, w=
hich adds another step. This is not difficult, but could be stressf=
ul if you have not done it before. Best to get everything you think=
you may need than stopping and starting because an inexpensive gasket no=
t being on-hand. Maybe skip the o-rings, get it running and see if =
it leaks. For the amount of driving you will do, maybe a few drips =
in the driveway are OK.</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT face=3Dsans-serif size=3D2>A=
ctually, you will need exhaust gaskets from the logs to the tailpipe in a=
ny case (two for this)...you already had the exhaust removed, so it did n=
ot occur to me to add it to the list til now. Don't forget oil filt=
er as well.</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT face=3Dsans-serif size=3D2>Review all th=
e other things you removed before we got there to see if there are others=
that should be replaced.</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT face=3Dsans-serif size=3D2=
>Also, the gas tank. How long has it been sitting? Since you =
said it was dry, it may be fine, but you may want to order the seal so yo=
u can check it. Also cheap.</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT face=3Dsans-serif =
size=3D2>Darrin<BR><BR>-----------------------------------------<BR>Darri=
n R. Hartzler<BR></FONT><BR><BR><BR> <TABLE width=3D"100%"> <TBODY> <TR v=
Align=3Dtop> <TD> <TD><FONT face=3Dsans-serif size=3D1><B>AnnePugs@aol.co=
m</B></FONT> <BR><FONT face=3Dsans-serif size=3D1>Sent by: novacc-list-ad=
min@corvair.org</FONT> <P><FONT face=3Dsans-serif size=3D1>11/20/2004 10=
:41 PM</FONT> <BR><FONT face=3Dsans-serif size=3D1>Please respond to nova=
cc-list</FONT> <BR></P> <TD><FONT face=3DArial size=3D1> &nb=
sp; </FONT><BR><FONT face=3Dsans-serif size=3D1> &nbs=
p; To: novacc-list@corvair.org</FONT> <=
BR><FONT face=3Dsans-serif size=3D1> cc:  =
; </FONT> <BR><FONT face=3Dsans-serif size=3D1> =
Subject: [NoVa-Corvairs]=
Follow-Up from Today's Meeting</FONT></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR><BR><=
BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I want to again thank everyone who helped =
out with my car today. Needless to say, I'm pretty darn pleased wit=
h the turn of events.</FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> </FONT=
> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I've spent some time on Clark's website=
looking for the parts that were recommended to me. I was hoping so=
mebody could confirm that I'm about to order the right stuff since Clark'=
s uses some slightly different names for some items.</FONT> <BR><FONT fac=
e=3DArial size=3D2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Here's a=
chart with the part name I wrote down, what Clark's calls it (if I'm rig=
ht), their part number, and their price. </FONT><BR><FONT face=3DArial si=
ze=3D2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><U>What I wrote &nbs=
p; What Clark Calls it &n=
bsp; Clark's Part #  =
; Clark's Price</U></FONT=
> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Pilot Bushing &nbs=
p; Clutch Pilot Bushing &=
nbsp; C701 =
$9.10</FONT> <BR><FONT f=
ace=3DArial size=3D2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Axle S=
tub Seals Drive Shaft Seals &nbs=
p; C496 &n=
bsp;  =
; $4.65/ea.</FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>(in transaxle, =
2 reqd)</FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> </FONT> <BR><FONT fa=
ce=3DArial size=3D2>Input Shaft Seal Throwout =
Bearing Shaft Seal C494 =
$3.95</FON=
T> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>(nose of transaxle)</FONT> <BR><FONT f=
ace=3DArial size=3D2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Fan Be=
lt Fan Bel=
t &=
nbsp; C5790 (Clark's Ultimate) $1=
0.90</FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> &=
nbsp; &nbs=
p; =
&nb=
sp; C8704 (Otto Super Belt) $12.80</FONT> <BR><FONT f=
ace=3DArial size=3D2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Oil Pa=
n Gasket Cork Oil Pan Gasket &nb=
sp; C199 &n=
bsp; $5.95=
</FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>  =
; "=
Best Quality"</FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> </FONT> <BR><F=
ONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Crankshaft Seal Bell=
housing Crank Seal C493 (polyacr=
ylate) $9.95</FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial si=
ze=3D2> &nb=
sp; =
&n=
bsp; or C493V (Viton) &nb=
sp; $13.90 </FONT><BR><FONT fac=
e=3DArial size=3D2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>*Clark's=
say I also need a new Bellhousing gasket if I'm replacing </FONT><BR><FO=
NT face=3DArial size=3D2>the Crank Seal - Part # C4628 - $3.15</FONT> <BR=
><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D=
2>So, my questions are am I buying the right parts and which of the 2 kin=
ds of fan belts</FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>and crank seals sh=
ould I get. Also, can anyone think of anything I've forgotten?</FON=
T> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>(For those who weren't able to make it=
today, the engine is out and its separated from </FONT><BR><FONT face=3D=
Arial size=3D2>the transaxle).</FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>&nb=
sp;</FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks a lot for the input. &n=
bsp;</FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=3D=
Arial size=3D2>-Mike</FONT> <BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HT=
ML>
------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C4D33A.AFB8BC20--