[NoVa-Corvairs] Jan 31 location & phone

Mon Feb 2 22:44:15 EST 2015

Wait, what does a snout crack have to do with pilot bushing removal? Are 
you using a blind bearing removal tool to remove the snout seal? They 
usually are not stuck and a bent screwdriver will get them out. But if 
anything can go wrong...  it will.

I would get the whole gasket/seal kit rather than just the paper gasket, 
unless he already has all the other rubber seals. See Greg's note about 
resealing.

On the shift coupler and pin, get the cotter pin and washers also, 
unless you have an assortment with the really small cotter pins (keys).

Frank DuVal

On 2/2/2015 8:02 PM, Bob Marshall via Novacc-list wrote:
>   After talking with Richard tonight it looks like using Greg's unit 
> is the most logical course of action for us to take to get his 63 back 
> on the road.  Richard is going to order the following parts for 
> Saturday's engine install/donut fest:
>
> Gasket for between trans and diff
> Clutch release bearing
> Clutch pilot bushing
> GL-4 gear oil
> Shifter coupling and pin
> 64 motor mount
>
> If anyone can think of anything else let Richard know tomorrow.
>
> Bryan - rather than risk another snout crack can we make arrangements 
> to get your pilot bushing tool since you are out of town this 
> weekend?  I could meet you and pick it up.
>
> Bob
> On 02/02/15, 63redbrier at cox.net wrote:
> All: I just spoke with Richard and have been following all the emails. 
> Thirty years ago I parted a '63 Spyder coupe and have been schelping 
> the trans and diff around for all these years. I should also have the 
> input shaft from the Spyder and will look for it tonight. I offered 
> the diff to Richard, but he is concerned it would take too much time 
> to swap it out. Yes, it would need to be cleaned up and resealed. I 
> broke one of the diff snouts on my old '65 Monza 4 speed while trying 
> to get out the old seal and learned my lesson. I rebuilt the diff and 
> installed one of the much stronger snouts capable of handling the new 
> double seal. The consensus seems to be to repair the crack. Remember, 
> this is a 50+ year old part which was brittle from the factory. Unsure 
> of the cost to have a welder come to Richard's house, but it may be 
> cheaper in the long run to replace the snout. Interest will wane if 
> this job has to be done a second time in a few months for another 
> slipping clutch.
> r thoughts? Greg
>
> ---- RICHARD via Novacc-list <novacc-list at corvair.org 
> <mailto:novacc-list at corvair.org>> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > I have a welder that is going to stop by my house tonight
> > so I think all I have to do is order the parts from the Ranch.
> >
> > I need a rear motor mount 64
> > throwout bearing
> > Seal kit
> > input shaft
> > to seals for axel
> > pilot bushing
> > gear oil
> >
> > If you can think of anything else let me know
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Richard
> >
> > From: "Bob Marshall via Novacc-list" <novacc-list at corvair.org 
> <mailto:novacc-list at corvair.org>>
> > To: dhartzler at ifc.org <mailto:dhartzler at ifc.org>, bryan at skiblack.com 
> <mailto:bryan at skiblack.com>, novacc-list at corvair.org 
> <mailto:novacc-list at corvair.org>
> > Sent: Sunday, February 1, 2015 9:53:13 PM
> > Subject: Re: [NoVa-Corvairs] Jan 31 location & phone
> >
> > According to Clarks catalog the 63 input shaft is 23 1/4" long with 
> 12 splines.
> > On 02/01/15, Darrin Hartzler via Novacc-list<novacc-list at corvair.org 
> <mailto:novacc-list at corvair.org>> wrote:
> > Sounds like good work done, but there's always something.
> >
> > What is the spline count on the shaft? I think I only have lates, 
> but can take a look,
> >
> > Darrin
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > On Feb 1, 2015, at 2:48 PM, Bryan Blackwell via Novacc-list < 
> novacc-list at corvair.org <mailto:novacc-list at corvair.org> > wrote:
> >
> > >> On Feb 1, 2015, at 1:52 PM, Frank DuVal via Novacc-list < 
> novacc-list at corvair.org <mailto:novacc-list at corvair.org> > wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Input shafts are the ~2 feet long rod that fits into the clutch 
> splines. They are many around in the garage somewhere. Everything is 
> buried due to moving the last of my 35+ year parts collection from 
> Richmond.
> > >
> > > Hi Frank,
> > >
> > > Let me see if I can add the needed details. Or confuse the issue 
> further :-)
> > >
> > > We pulled the powertrain to take care of the slipping clutch, and 
> found the input shaft seal leaking. Further investigation revealed the 
> likely results of an "engine only" removal:
> > >
> > > - Bent input shaft
> > > - Vice grip marks on said input shaft
> > > - Cracked diff snout
> > > - Wallowed out pilot bushing
> > >
> > > The crack isn't horrible, it extends just about even with the 
> seal. The transaxle appears to be a '63 4 speed, so he's looking for a 
> straight shaft and needs to do something to resolve the crack. The 
> trans and diff both work well, so it's desirable to fix what's there. 
> He already has a new seal and split ring, and will be getting a 
> throwout bearing (it's rather worn) and pilot bushing. If you're up to 
> replacing the snout, that would be ideal of course, but we were 
> thinking a repair might suffice. Maybe next weekend's session is at 
> Frank's to r&r the snout :-)
> > >
> > > --Bryan
> > >
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>
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