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Yes on the brazing.<br>
<br>
Clark's has throw out bearing shafts for sale. Until recently they
were made by CVCC member David Robertson when he worked for a
machine shop in Richmond. See attached newsletter for the story on
how they are made. <br>
<br>
Input shafts are the ~2 feet long rod that fits into the clutch
splines. They are many around in the garage somewhere. Everything is
buried due to moving the last of my 35+ year parts collection from
Richmond.<br>
<br>
Buy a seal kit along with the throw out bearing shaft and we can
change it out. Oh, buy an extra input shaft seal, as the new part
uses two seals. Has anyone measured your input shaft to see if it is
and early or late (slightly larger in diameter, especially the seal
area, the seals are different). I guess I can unbury the hydraulic
press to do it.<br>
<br>
Frank<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/1/2015 12:09 PM, RICHARD wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:1307489251.11681795.1422810574831.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net"
type="cite">
<div style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000">
<div aria-label="Compose body"><br>
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<div>Frank</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Do you have a spare Input Shaft. or Do you have a 63
4speed TransAxel you can sell me</div>
<div>exchange. If none of the above can you braze my snout. Let
me know when</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thank you so much</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Richard</div>
<div>703 987 5879</div>
<hr id="zwchr">
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style="color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;"
data-mce-style="color: #000; font-weight: normal; font-style:
normal; text-decoration: none; font-family:
Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>From: </b>"Frank
DuVal via Novacc-list" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:novacc-list@corvair.org"><novacc-list@corvair.org></a><br>
<b>To: </b><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:novacc-list@corvair.org">novacc-list@corvair.org</a><br>
<b>Sent: </b>Saturday, January 31, 2015 10:14:54 PM<br>
<b>Subject: </b>Re: [NoVa-Corvairs] Jan 31 location &
phone<br>
<div><br>
</div>
I have oxy/acet and can braze the crack if you like. I have
arc welded them in years past, but it is very messy. I have
also put them back in with short cracks. MIG should be easy
also. It will take some grinding to get the area smooth enough
for the smooth operation of the bearing to slide. I have
everything except TIG in the welding department.<br>
<br>
JB weld will not hold the crack against further cracking. If
you try this, put a small drilled hole (1/8" or smaller) at
the end of the crack.<br>
<br>
Frank DuVal<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/31/2015 9:02 PM, Bob
Marshall via Novacc-list wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:28436784.388879.1422756144078.JavaMail.root@vznit170146.mailsrvcs.net">
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FONT-SIZE: 12px" data-mce-style="font-family: Arial;
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<div>After our discovery of a crack in the throw out
bearing shaft on Richard's Diff today I searched the
Forum and found the following from Steve Goodman. Based
on the fact that the crack has not reached the seal area
I think we would be safe to try to repair the crack with
the JB weld and put it back together. <br>
<br>
I have posted a question on the forum about the
possibility of using a mig welder to tack the crack
closed. <br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="PhorumReadBodyHead"><strong>Re: Differential
needed asap.</strong> <span class="PhorumNewFlag"></span></div>
<div class="PhorumReadBodyHead">Posted by:<strong><a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/profile.php?1,1609"
target="_blank"
data-mce-href="http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/profile.php?1,1609">steve
c goodman</a></strong> ()</div>
<div class="PhorumReadBodyHead">Date: November 07, 2014
02:42PM</div>
<br>
Agreed about length of crack. Years ago with no time to
replace the shaft and customer not being able to afford
it anyway, I cleaned the crack and gently ground a small
V the length of it and brazed it together. Filed and
sanded the excess brass smooth and put it together. It
held together for the next several years that I tended
to the car then lost track of it. After writing this
however the better repair is replacing the shaft. Dan D
is correct too, finding good diffs is getting harder.<br>
<br>
Fun day today. Too many donuts though.<br>
<br>
<br>
</div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<span
style="font-size:12;font-family:arial;color:#000000;"
data-mce-style="font-size: 12; font-family: arial;
color: #000000;">On 01/30/15, <span>Bryan Blackwell<a
moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:bryan@skiblack.com" target="_blank"
data-mce-href="mailto:bryan@skiblack.com"><bryan@skiblack.com></a></span>
wrote:</span>
<div> </div>
<div style="font-size:12;font-family:arial;color:#000000;"
data-mce-style="font-size: 12; font-family: arial;
color: #000000;">Just had to dig back through the thread
to answer my own question:<br>
<br>
9015 Sowder Place, Nokesville, VA.<br>
703 987 5879<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
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