<font color='black' size='2' face='Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif'>Frank (et al),
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I imagine you must have a dent in your forehead from smacking it with the palm of your hand every time you read something I have written. I assure you I have one from reading the replies and then realizing what I have written! After I read your explanation, it was clear to me that by going by the position of the rotor, I was putting the cylinder again in the combustion phase. DOH! Missed that the first time, but mistakes are opportunities to learn and grow with the proper guidance. The forest and the trees...</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>So I turned the harmonic balancer (effectively the crankshaft?) 360 degrees and checked the rotor and it was now 180 degrees from #2 cyl and positioned at #1 cyl. Ran the leak down again, and got essentially the same results, about 67% leakage out the exhaust. I think one of the valves on the meter is a bit funky as air doesn't always flow. There seems to be a sweet spot on the connector going to the cylinder hose that needs to be found..</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>This lead me to the following question; since the timing marks are for #1 cyl (correct assumption?) then wouldn't setting the #1 cyl at 0 TDC put #2 cyl in the proper exhaust position? I know this is no longer relevant to the need to remove the head but only to my understanding.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Truly a baptism by fire!</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks,</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Dan<br>
<br>
<br>
<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: FrankDuVal via Novacc-list <novacc-list@corvair.org><br>
To: novacc-list <novacc-list@corvair.org><br>
Cc: FrankDuVal <corvairduval@cox.net><br>
Sent: Fri, Mar 3, 2017 10:56 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [NoVa-Corvairs] Noob May Need a Good Used Head<br>
<br>
<div id="AOLMsgPart_1.2_f87222fc-89d1-47dc-8b5f-1cbae33ad1bb">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000" class="aolReplacedBody">
<div>Um,, no. If you rotated the distributor rotor 360 degrees, you
were at the same stroke. Remember, the crankshaft turns twice as
fast as the camshaft, but despite the Corvair actually driving the
distributor off the crankshaft, instead of like most every other
engine out there in which the distributor is driven off the
camshaft, the Corvair distributor , like all 4 stroke
distributors, turns half crankshaft speed, so 360 degrees of rotor
is the same stroke of the cylinder's piston. i.e. when the rotor
points to #1 spark plug tower, it is always going to fire the #1
sprk plug on the compression stroke.</div>
<div>You need to turn the crankshaft 360 degrees to get the two
different strokes (end of compression and exhaust).</div>
<div>Frank DuVal<br>
</div>
<div class="aolmail_moz-cite-prefix">On 3/3/2017 2:47 PM, Dan Weiss via
Novacc-list wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="about:blank"><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" color="black" size="2">Ran
leak test again. First time at 60 % leakage. Rotated rotor 360
degrees. Second time read 66% leakage. Air flow out exhaust.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Would the 60% indicate the compression stroke, and the 66%
the exhaust stroke?<br>
<br>
<br>
<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original
Message-----<br>
From: Dan Weiss via Novacc-list
<a class="aolmail_moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="mailto:novacc-list@corvair.org"><novacc-list@corvair.org></a><br>
To: novacc-list <a class="aolmail_moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="mailto:novacc-list@corvair.org"><novacc-list@corvair.org></a><br>
Cc: Dan Weiss <a class="aolmail_moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="mailto:dkakd@aol.com"><dkakd@aol.com></a>; bryan
<a class="aolmail_moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="mailto:bryan@skiblack.com"><bryan@skiblack.com></a><br>
Sent: Fri, Mar 3, 2017 1:09 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [NoVa-Corvairs] Noob May Need a Good Used Head<br>
<br>
<div id="aolmail_AOLMsgPart_1.2_c882b6f6-692d-44e4-96e4-c365385ab44e">
<div class="aolmail_aolReplacedBody"><font face="Arial, Helvetica,
sans-serif" color="black" size="2">Bryan,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thank you for your input. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>If I understand your first point, I may need to
rotate the nut on the harmonic balancer until the
rotor comes back around to the position for the
second cylinder. Had not thought of that. I have
been turning the nut clockwise. Should manual
advancing of the crank be done in only one direction
regardless of which one? I read somewhere that if
you go over where you want timing marks to meet, you
should not go backward, but make another rotation. I
know that the timing marks are only for cyl #1.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Yes, it has electronic ignition. Everything in
your middle point flew over my head ;-}, but the
above is pretty much all moot as to diagnostics in
this instance but great for my edification on
corvairs. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I would be reluctant to go through all the work
with one of "unknown history." Clarks quoted $150
for good used heads, which several have said is
really high. Any idea what it should cost to
rebuild a head and where to go? One vendor quoted
$1500 to rebuild both heads. Does "if it ain't
broke, don't fix it" apply to the other head, or
should both be rebuilt at the same time?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Apologies for all the questions, but really at
the start of the learning curve with this.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Dan</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
<br>
<br>
<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original
Message-----<br>
From: Bryan Blackwell via Novacc-list <novacc-<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="mailto:list@corvair.org">list@corvair.org</a>><br>
To: Northern Va Corvair Club <novacc-<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="mailto:list@corvair.org">list@corvair.org</a>><br>
Cc: Bryan Blackwell <<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="mailto:bryan@skiblack.com">bryan@skiblack.com</a>><br>
Sent: Fri, Mar 3, 2017 12:21 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [NoVa-Corvairs] Noob May Need a Good
Used Head<br>
<br>
Hi Dan,<br>
<br>
A couple of thoughts:<br>
<br>
First, you're right, the head has to come off. The
compression check shows zero. On the leakdown
test, it may just be you had it on the overlap
instead of compression, don't forget it's two
engine revolutions per cycle.<br>
<br>
One other bit - as I recall you have an electronic
ignition. On those you don't want to pull plug
wires for the test, it's better to sneak a probe
down the boot on each distributor wire and ground
the cylinders one at a time.<br>
<br>
Finally, I've reached the point that I don't trust
used unknown history heads. IMHO, if the head is
coming off, I want to put a rebuilt one with fresh
seats in it's place. In any case, you should
verify which casting numbers are on the engine so
both sides match.<br>
<br>
--Bryan<br>
<br>
> On Mar 3, 2017, at 12:04 AM, Dan Weiss via
Novacc-list <novacc-<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="mailto:list@corvair.org">list@corvair.org</a>>
wrote:<br>
> <br>
> Pulling one plug wire at a time, removing the
wire for #2 Cyl produced no difference, so it
seemed the problem was the same cylinder the Ranch
found in need of some attention.<br>
> <br>
> Compression test was done on each cylinder.
First test was without having throttle open
(forgot about that); second test was with throttle
open for each cylinder. Open throttle produced a
range of 2 to 7 additional PSI of compression.<br>
> <br>
> Here are readings:<br>
> <br>
> CYLINDER FIRST TEST SECOND TEST<br>
> 2 0 0<br>
> 4 143 145<br>
> 6 150 157<br>
> 1 140 143<br>
> 3 157 164 <br>
> 5 151 156<br>
> <br>
> Onto the leak down test.<br>
> <br>
> Did the best I could to get cyl #2 to TDC by
aligning the rotor under the cap with the #2
contact. First attempts read close to 100%.
Further adjustment seemed to tighten things up and
tests consistently read right on the yellow and
red section divider at about 71% cylinder leakage.
I made sure to turn the regulator so the gauge
read 0% before connecting it to the cylinder. The
gauge immediately read 71% leakage and stayed
right there. I turned the regulator clockwise to
allow for airflow from the compressor, and the air
was flowing out the exhaust pipe. What surprised
me was that if I did achieve TDC, with the air
leaking out the exhaust, I thought the rocker arm
in the pic would have been with the exhaust valve,
but as you all already know, that is the intake
valve.<br>
> <br>
> Does it seem that the leak down test was done
correctly? <br>
> <br>
> Obviously, regardless of the leak down test,
the head has to come off to be replaced or
repaired. I plan to pull the valve cover off to
see what may be going on under there tomorrow or
Saturday..<br>
> <br>
<br>
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