I have found that if you tighten the upper head nuts slightly they will often break free from the stud easier than just trying to loosen then from the start. I am only talking about an 8th to a quarter turn at the most. I would not go any tighter that that for this process.<br><br><div id="ymail_android_signature"><a href="https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/mobile/?.src=Android" id="yMail_cursorElementTracker_1489094058540">Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android</a></div> <br> <blockquote style="margin: 0 0 20px 0;"> <header style="font-family:Roboto, sans-serif; color:#6D00F6;"> <div>On Thu, Mar 9, 2017 at 3:33 PM, A.L. CRAMP via Novacc-list</div><div><novacc-list@corvair.org> wrote:</div> </header> <div style="padding: 10px 0 0 20px; margin: 10px 0 0 0; border-left: 1px solid #6D00F6;"> <div id="yiv3348189026">
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<p>If you can, it is always good to remove the cotter pins and back out the castle nuts on the front trans/ motor mounts so the engine can be lowered in the back without damage to the rubber mounts.</p>
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<p>You will of course remove the pin and nut from the rear motor mount and the skid plate there is not such a bad spot to put the jack to lower the back.</p>
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<p>Very slowly/carefully. Check all wires etc that might pull out or break. But if you lower it , it will also make the removal of the shrouds and perimeter seal easier as well as install. So you will be putting the shrouds and seal in place before raising.</p>
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<p>Soak the top head nuts liberally with the best penetrate you have to help things along. Bob, Fred and I like Kroil. But more than wd-40. It may still be an adventure to see if the nuts will come off with out taking the stud out of the block.</p>
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<p>Once we all get this head off and look at it. I am with the group that says you should do a good job on both heads. There are some real artists who can do quality head work. Do it once. I guess this will make fixing your left choke rod easier , eh?</p>
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But I think you can lower it enough to avoid taking the short stud off. -- Lee - Remember , this aluminum stuff is soft! and can damage.<br>
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<div id="yiv3348189026x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000" style="font-size:11pt;"><b>From:</b> Novacc-list <novacc-list-bounces@corvair.org> on behalf of Robert Walker via Novacc-list <novacc-list@corvair.org><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, March 9, 2017 2:44 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Northern Va Corvair Club<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Robert Walker<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [NoVa-Corvairs] Noob May Need a Good Used Head update</font>
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<div class="yiv3348189026PlainText">The short carb stud probably won't clear the frame, but you shouldn't<br>
have to lower the engine much. Just be careful of the shift linkage.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
On Wed, Mar 8, 2017 at 11:25 PM, Dan Weiss via Novacc-list<br>
<novacc-list@corvair.org> wrote:<br>
> It looks like if I can get the long stud out, removing the head wouldn't require dropping the engine. No?<br>
><br>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Droid<br>
> On Mar 8, 2017 11:09 PM, Robert Marshall <ram0672@verizon.net> wrote:<br>
>><br>
>> The carb studs are really tight and hard to get out. Usually need to heat the head wit Mapp gas. Why are you removing them?<br>
>><br>
>> Sent from my iPhone<br>
>><br>
>> > On Mar 8, 2017, at 11:05 PM, Dan Weiss via Novacc-list <novacc-list@corvair.org> wrote:<br>
>> ><br>
>> > No nests! Pretty clean overall.<br>
>> ><br>
>> > At this point, if I can get the long carb stud out, may not need to I guess.<br>
>> ><br>
>> > The two nut approach hasn't work, so hoping the penetrating oil will do the trick.<br>
>> ><br>
>> > Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Droid<br>
>> >> On Mar 8, 2017 10:25 PM, Vernon Welsted via Novacc-list <novacc-list@corvair.org> wrote:<br>
>> >><br>
>> >> Looks clean and orderly now that it's off doesn't it..pulling the powerpack?<br>
>> >> Vernon<br>
>> >><br>
>> >> Sent from my iPhone<br>
>> >><br>
>> >>> On Mar 8, 2017, at 9:39 PM, Dan Weiss via Novacc-list <novacc-list@corvair.org> wrote:<br>
>> >>><br>
>> >>> Bob Walker came by today as I was putzing. His eagle eye pointed out several kinda hidden bolts aiding to the removal of the shrouds and compartment seal, which led to removing that blasted heater hose shroud. Finally. Vernon?<br>
>> >>><br>
>> >>> Turns out Bryan gave me the proper instructions a few emails back.<br>
>> >>><br>
>> >>> Began hitting the upper head bolts and carb studs with PB blaster as recommended by many. Time will tell.<br>
>> >>><br>
>> >>> <IMG_20170307_185900960.jpg><br>
>> >>> _______________________________________________<br>
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