[V8Vairs] V8Vairs Digest, Vol 87, Issue 4

Rick Andersen rick at friendlychevrolet.us
Thu Aug 23 13:58:05 EDT 2012


I just finished the installation of a Flex-A-Lite dual puller fan assembly
and a Dedenbear Electric Water Pump. The electric fans each have a 13.5"
diameter with shrouded dimensions of 27.5" X 17.5" and seals tight to the
radiator. They pull a total of 4,600 cfm of air. I believe that this fan is
a high performance replacement unit for a Toyota Tundra. The water pump only
uses 3.5 amps, but flows 26 gallons per minute. I went for this pump because
it takes up a lot less space on the front of the engine so I could keep the
firewall as far back as possible. I also felt that it doesn't do a lot of
good to have an effective radiator if you can't move plenty of water through
it. I know Matt will probably say that this is overkill, but I'd rather be
safe than sorry! 

I do have a Moroso 63539 electric water pump available for sale is anyone is
interested. They sell new for something over $300.00  I'd like to get $150
for this one. It has been sitting on an engine for several years and
probably has somewhere around 1 hour of total usage time. I have also
attached a photo of this pump.

I also have a question for Matt - What area are you referring to when you
mentioned "Underside of the LM is a high pressure area!". I don't know what
LM stands for.

Rick Andersen
Puyallup, Wa / Sedona, Az
Crown 331" Corsa Convert 

-----Original Message-----
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Behalf Of v8vairs-request at corvair.org
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 9:00 AM
To: v8vairs at corvair.org
Subject: V8Vairs Digest, Vol 87, Issue 4

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: cooling (deltainc)
   2. V8 cooling (paul beck)
   3. Re: cooling (Denny Burrows)
   4. Re: cooling (Matt Nall)
   5. Re: cooling (GnKHOFFMAN at aol.com)
   6. Re: cooling (RHargr8188 at aol.com)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 14:24:21 -0500
From: "deltainc" <deltainc at grm.net>
Subject: Re: [V8Vairs] cooling
To: "Denny Burrows" <varyv8 at yahoo.com>,	"discussion of non-stock
	engines in Corvairs" <v8vairs at corvair.org>
Message-ID: <6B567D9720B845578BD13C849CA77581 at deltaa5d58061e>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=original


----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Burrows" <varyv8 at yahoo.com>

2 big things:  (1) a radiator with no deposits that will keep  the water
from contacting the metal.  a big deal.  radiators are cheaper than a new
engine..... dont ask.
(2)   a perfect fan shroud ...  no mouse holes, etc.

*********
also, if you never get hotter than 215F, even when __enjoying ___ it... that
is not so bad, with 50-50 antifreeze and 16 lbs pressure.  you won't blow up
until you get to about 240-260 F.  if you cruise at 215 F, it will get worse
fast when you starting dumping 100,000 Watts thru the system.

*********
here are a few simple, cheap things, after you get down to worse case 215F
or so.

Red Line sells water wetter... it lowers the surface tension of the coolant,
and gets better contact with the metal.  I dropped about 5 or 10 degrees.

check the voltage at your electric fan...  i had smaller wires that dropped
2 or 3 volts, ran cooler when I went to bigger gauge.

you could carefully...  run straight water ... carefully ....    water cools

better, but will  boil sooner than 50-50.. be careful ... if  you never run
over 215 worst case,  straight water might help...  also,  don[t forget to
change to  50-50 when winter comes .

********
May not be cheap, but is effective.   try to get air flowing over the engine

& exhaust headers    ..    , carrying heat out of the car.  this is not 
always easy, but might drop  water temps by 20 F...    the engine block is a

big radiator all by itself ..
oh, it might be be worthwhile to look  into the specialized  cooling fluids 
...   I think the evil lone harranguer played with this when he had a v8. 
google probably knows about this stuff....., i do not.

hope something helps, ..ken




------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 14:39:56 -0500
From: paul beck <pbeck001 at yahoo.com>
Subject: [V8Vairs] V8 cooling
To: "V8Vairs at corvair.org" <V8Vairs at corvair.org>
Message-ID: <29A3B68F-C71E-46AC-9431-204B492329BE at yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset=us-ascii


Welcome Denny. 
The first year I ran my V8 the temps ranged from 200 to 240. Always seemed
to cool better sitting in a parking lot. Did a number of different changes,
larger puller fan, relocated front spoiler, different thermostat. I run a
built 350 with aluminum Vette heads and an electric water pump. I finally
routed my cooling lines in front of the firewall and into the tunnel. No
cover. Also had the engine dynoed. The operator changed my timing and
advance significantly as well as my carb set up. Car now seldom gets more
than 180, even on the 100+ days this summer. Preformed great on the power
tour. Matt is right, if it's a newer engine it should run hotter without
problems. 
Paul Beck
65 Monza crown conversion
Corsa
V8 registry
PCCA
Sent from my iPhone



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 14:06:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Denny Burrows <varyv8 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [V8Vairs] cooling
To: discussion of non-stock engines in Corvairs <v8vairs at corvair.org>
Message-ID:
	<1345669566.46839.YahooMailNeo at web111608.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

eng comp heat exits out the body panel directly under the rear window.
opening is 10" x? 40". sorry for pic's?i don't know how to load pi's , and
my was not to be found.
?
denny
 

________________________________
 From: Matt Nall <patiomatt at aol.com>
To: v8vairs at corvair.org
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2012 8:32 PM
Subject: Re: [V8Vairs] cooling
  



i.ve put 700 miles on the car . 
pipes from the rad go into the car down the fire wall under the car, then up
to 
the motor. last week i ran the hoses from the eng to a barrel full of water,
it 
ran 160/185. i put a 7 fin blade on for testing, also built a shroud for the

rad.


again thanks
denny


============================================


How does the air exit? the trunk area?


Matt Nall
Charleston, Oregon
http://tinyurl.com/The-Patio
http://tinyurl.com/Matts-Tech-Pages








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------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 17:29:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Matt Nall <patiomatt at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [V8Vairs] cooling
To: v8vairs at corvair.org
Message-ID: <8CF4EC468F89CAE-12D0-BE53C at webmail-m148.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"




eng comp heat exits out the body panel directly under the rear window.
opening 
is 10" x  40". sorry for pic's i don't know how to load pi's , and my was
not to 
be found.
 
denny
 

=====================================================================


Engine compartment heat is not  a cooling problem...  only has to do with
your comfort....




 Airflow  thru the radiator is the killer!   Underside of the LM  is a high
pressure area!    It has to be forced!


Matt Nall
Charleston, Oregon
http://tinyurl.com/The-Patio
http://tinyurl.com/Matts-Tech-Pages










 


------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 23:08:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: GnKHOFFMAN at aol.com
Subject: Re: [V8Vairs] cooling
To: v8vairs at corvair.org
Message-ID: <4695d.4c643388.3d66f8bc at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

 
My 16" shrouded electric fan doesn't have a footprint big enough to cover  
the entire backside of the 31"wide 19" tall radiator, but still pulls 
enought  air thru to cool nicely.  Checking for full voltage at the fan (as

mentioned by others) is important too.  AND, I found I had initially wired
to 
the wrong wire on my electric fan (it was the slower speed). 
 
I changed my exit air from the fender wells to the bottom of the trunk, and 
 put a Camero front spoiler on to help force air in.  I was on the road  
racing track last April when the fuse blew on my electric fan.  And at
speed 
I had plenty of air to keep the water temp at 190 degrees even without the  
fan.  Shrouding on the front of the radiator (to force all the air thru the

radiator) is important too.
 
Having enough timing advance helps (but not TOO much our you will have  
detonation).  Higher octane fuel helps too.
 
Water wetter helps (but is more effective in lowering temperature if run  
with straight water than if run with an antifreeze/water mix).
 
I am running antifreeze/water mix, and I am able to have a temp of 170  
degrees (and I fought cooling problems for a long time, ultimatly finding
that  
corrosion from the engine water jacket had plugged up my then new aluminum  
radiator).  Figuring out what is the problem with any particular setup can  
be a real bugger, but keep after it; you can solve the problem.
 
Gary
 
 
In a message dated 8/22/2012 2:30:12 PM Pacific Daylight Time,  
patiomatt at aol.com writes:



eng comp heat exits out the body panel directly under the  rear window. 
opening 
is 10" x  40". sorry for pic's i don't know how  to load pi's , and my was 
not to 
be  found.

denny


=====================================================================


Engine  compartment heat is not  a cooling problem...  only has to do  with 
 your comfort....




Airflow  thru the radiator  is the killer!   Underside of the LM  is a high 
pressure  area!    It has to be forced!


Matt Nall
Charleston,  Oregon
http://tinyurl.com/The-Patio
http://tinyurl.com/Matts-Tech-Pages





------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 23:28:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: RHargr8188 at aol.com
Subject: Re: [V8Vairs] cooling
To: v8vairs at corvair.org
Message-ID: <3cb7c.24eb9a9a.3d66fd79 at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

check out these 18" fans, they pull a lot of air. Wire size is important! 
 
_http://www.ebay.com/itm/190590249355?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984
.m1423.l2649_ 
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/190590249355?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984
.m1423.l2649) 
 
Doug
 
 
In a message dated 8/22/2012 8:08:53 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
GnKHOFFMAN at aol.com writes:


My  16" shrouded electric fan doesn't have a footprint big enough to cover  
 
the entire backside of the 31"wide 19" tall radiator, but still pulls  
enought  air thru to cool nicely.  Checking for full voltage at  the fan 
(as  
mentioned by others) is important too.  AND, I  found I had initially wired 
 to 
the wrong wire on my electric fan (it  was the slower speed). 

I changed my exit air from the fender wells to  the bottom of the trunk, 
and 
put a Camero front spoiler on to help force  air in.  I was on the road  
racing track last April when the  fuse blew on my electric fan.  And at  
speed 
I had plenty of air  to keep the water temp at 190 degrees even without the 
 
fan.   Shrouding on the front of the radiator (to force all the air thru 
the   
radiator) is important too.

Having enough timing advance helps (but  not TOO much our you will have  
detonation).  Higher octane fuel  helps too.

Water wetter helps (but is more effective in lowering  temperature if run  
with straight water than if run with an  antifreeze/water mix).

I am running antifreeze/water mix, and I am able  to have a temp of 170  
degrees (and I fought cooling problems for a  long time, ultimatly finding 
that  
corrosion from the engine water  jacket had plugged up my then new aluminum 
 
radiator).  Figuring  out what is the problem with any particular setup can 
 
be a real  bugger, but keep after it; you can solve the  problem.

Gary


In a message dated 8/22/2012 2:30:12 PM  Pacific Daylight Time,  
patiomatt at aol.com writes:



eng  comp heat exits out the body panel directly under the  rear window.  
opening 
is 10" x  40". sorry for pic's i don't know how  to  load pi's , and my was 
not to 
be   found.

denny


=====================================================================


Engine   compartment heat is not  a cooling problem...  only has to do   
with 
your comfort....




Airflow  thru the  radiator  is the killer!   Underside of the LM  is a 
high  
pressure  area!    It has to be forced!


Matt  Nall
Charleston,   Oregon
http://tinyurl.com/The-Patio
http://tinyurl.com/Matts-Tech-Pages



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V8Vairs at corvair.org
http://www.vv.corvair.org/mailman/listinfo/v8vairs
This  list sponsored by the Corvair Society of America,  
http://www.corvair.org/



------------------------------

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End of V8Vairs Digest, Vol 87, Issue 4
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