<VV> Exhaust Manirold studs

[Frank DuVal]

Russ:

When I try to remove a stud and it does not move with PB Blaster soaking 
and back and forth turning with vise grips, I used to use a heat to dull 
red and quinch with water method ( but this requires an oxy-acetalene 
torch). This method works great on many fasteners, but has the unwanted 
side effect of hardening the parts. This made the parts hard to drill if 
needed. So now I just skip the heating step and cut off the stud even 
with the manifold, center punch the stud and drill with the 5/16" drill 
bit. This is the hole size needed for a 3/8 coarse tap. Sometimes the 
stud piece will turn out while drilling. If not, just tap the hole. 
Sometimes the stud piece will turn out while taping the hole, exposing 
the original threads. Worst case will be if you didn't center the new 
hole with the old hole and the stud piece turns out leaving an oval 
hole, but I have had good success using these slightly oval holes. You 
can always back up the new stud with a nut, or tack weld the new stud in 
place with a mig welder. Welding works good when you have a broken/ 
missing ear. Use the proper size flange from an old crossover to align 
the studs before welding. If you use the stainless steel studs, you do 
not need to worry about how to replace them later.

Frank DuVal