<VV> Turbo Electric Choke adjustment

[RoboMan91324 at aol.com]

Hi Derek,

First, your engine WILL run richer when the choke is "on."  That is how 
chokes work along with a faster idle.  Harley calls theirs an "enrichener" instead 
of a choke.

Second, the turbo carbs don't have a pull-off like the HVs have to help kick 
down the fast idle.  I believe that this is accomplished in the turbo carb 
only by the bimetallic element.

Third, you can adjust the "start point" of your choke when cold by loosening 
the hold down screws and turning the cover.  There should be an indication on 
the cover that tells you which way to turn it.  If the adjustment holds the 
choke closed strongly when cold, it will take longer for the choke to come off 
while the bimetallic element warms up.  If the adjustment barely holds the 
choke closed when cold, it will come off sooner.  The adjustment process will be 
trial and error but you will get it eventually.  Keep in mind that you don't 
want the choke to come off too soon or you will have stalling problems until the 
engine is fully warm.

The process is pretty much the same with electric or stock chokes.  The main 
difference is that one uses electricity as the heat source and the other uses 
exhaust gas.

Good luck,
Doc
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Message: 8
To: virtualvairs@corvair.org
From: Derek Archer <eggman@owt.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 21:26:14 -0800
Subject: <VV> Turbo Electric Choke adjustment

    My Spyder (when I bought it) has an electric choke on it and the old 
choke air lines disconnected. (I think it is the same one that Clark's sells) It 
works just fine, but it seems like, when it is closed and the engine is fast 
idling, some smoke comes out the tailpipe and the exhaust sounds and smells like 
it is running very rich. It even acts like it is running rich when I first 
start moving down the street and accelerate. Also, it absolutely refuses to kick 
down from fast idle, which results in a sort of involuntary cruise control (I 
have the fast idle set around 1500 rpm), until it warms up enough to open the 
choke all the way, which sometimes seems like it takes a LOOOOOONG time on 
the road, but it opens fairly quickly when idling in my driveway, but still 
sometimes won't kick down readily. I can't seem to understand the adjustment 
procedure for the choke and fast idle system in the shop manual. If anybody has had 
any experience with these electric chokes and getting the choke to open quick 
enough to get the fast idle cam out of range of the linkage to allow the 
engine to idle normally without the "cruise control" effect, your advice would be 
greatly appreciated.

Derek Archer