<VV> Problems getting lacquer paint in California (or anywhere ?)

[Charles Lee]

Does anyone know how to (or if you even can) "feather" paint if a small area 
has to be painted, but you don't want to paint the whole piece (i.e: a small 
scratch in the middle of the deck lid or a fender, door, etc. ?

It was possible with lacquer but not so with enamel, at least in my 
experience.

When I try to "feather" the sprayed area, it never blends in with the 
surrounding area, and there is a very visible border between the two areas. 
Am I doing this wrong ?

Thanks for any tips you can give me,

Chaz
1967 Monza coupe



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dennis & Debbie Pleau" <ddpleau@earthlink.net>
To: "Virtual Vairs Submission" <virtualvairs@corvair.org>
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2005 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: <VV> Problems getting Paint in N. California


> Nevada!!!
>
> dp
>
> At 05:56 PM 2/12/2005, Dan & Synde wrote:
>>I'm a DIY type of person on most things.  I did my own prep work and paint
>>on my Greenbrier back in 1990-1991.  The paint I used was PPG Catalyzed
>>Arcylic Enamel.  The paint was easy to apply, almost as easy as acrylic
>>laquer.  I did it in my garage and since flash off time was about 15
>>minutes, I didn't have to worry too much about debris like dust and bugs
>>settling on it and sticking.  Fast forward 14 years.  The Greenbrier's 
>>paint
>>has held up well for being mainly outside but it is time once again for a
>>paint job.  I went into the local paint dealer and times have changed.  I
>>asked for Acrylic Enamel and you could have heard a pin drop.  The 
>>audacity
>>of me to ask for the dreaded Arcylic Enamel, in California of all places. 
>>I
>>was informed that Arcylic Enamel was no longer available and that Low Voc
>>Urethane was now the coating of choice.  I've used Urethane before but 
>>have
>>found that its slow drying time makes it hard to use for the DIY'er 
>>without
>>access to a paint booth and oven.  It literally remains tacky for an hour 
>>or
>>more.
>>
>>I decided that maybe it was time to give the job back to the 
>>professionals,
>>so I shopped around for a Autobody shop.  I was turned away from all but 
>>one
>>in town.  No one seems to want to paint an entire car anymore.  It's all
>>about collision work now.  One shop I was referred to said that they would
>>take on the job.  I told them that I would bring it in stripped, without 
>>any
>>bumpers, windows, trim etc.  The body is straight, no dents.  The paint is
>>still okay but has lost it's shine.  It has a minimal number of stone 
>>chips
>>and door dings.  The quote was $6,500 !!!!   Could be higher once they get
>>into it.  I couldn't believe it!  I realize there is some prep work 
>>involved
>>but come on.  I even offered to prep it myself and asked it that would 
>>lower
>>the price.  They said it wouldn't because they'd have to go over it again
>>anyway.
>>
>>So now I'm stuck.  I wish I could get my hands on some PPG Acrylic Enamel 
>>so
>>I could just do my own job but if it truly has been outlawed in 
>>California,
>>I may not have any other options.  I just can't see spending $6500 on it. 
>>I
>>realize labor costs but that seems a little high.
>>
>>Anyone have any ideas or a shop that does good work at a reasonable price 
>>in
>>the Bay Area?  I don't want an Earl Schieb or Macco job but one shouldn't
>>have to pay $6,500 for a decent job.
>>
>>Dan Kling
>>
>>1961 Greenbrier Deluxe, 4spd, 3.89  On the Road Again,  yeehaw :)
>>1963 Spyder, restored   4spd Saginaw
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