<VV> Floor Pans

[mhicks130 at cox.net]

I don't think it's an issue of right or wrong.  We don't all have access to the equipment or skills you do Smitty.  I'm just saying that riveting a floor panel in "well" (slightly less rigorous than "properly") and using structural adhesive (sealing and tension) is better than doing nothing or just slathering some fiberglass over the affected area.  I agree, in a perfect world you weld (actually in  a perfect world these dag nab cars don't rust in the first place) but in the real world we all live in, you do what you have to do.  It's a matter of reasonable compromise.  

You have to properly prep for weld too (as you should well know).  You can't be welding over paint and dirt and whatnot.

I admittedly don't have any personal experience with welded versus rivet/adhesive floor repairs and how they hold up in crashes but then I expect a lot of people here don't.  If anyone knows of any crash test data on this, I'd love to see it.  

I still say if you're that worried about safety - get a modern car with its cacoon of airbags to cradle you to safety in the event of a crash.

BTW - a main battle tank wouldn't be a safe vehicle if it was an Iraqi tank and there were A-10's and Apaches overhead.  I'd rather be in my unsafe at any speed corvair with its improperly riveted in floor panels - waiving an American flag!!!!

mike
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Smitty says:   You are entitled to your "Can't Believe" and welcome to it
Mike, but you are wrong.  Me?  I will have my floors welded in and with
doublers installed at the seat and belt mounting points.  Improperly
welded in floor panels do not have the capability of resisting the
diamond stress on the floor pan in a collision.  Seats rely on the
strength of the floor to stay in place.  As an old aircraft structures
mechanic I disagree with your term "properly riveted".  There is no
"properly riveted when putting a steel panel in place with pop rivets
spaced an inch apart.  When you speak of using adhesive you do realize
the it must be applied on bare clean steel and not on top of POR-15 or
Rustolium  or any other paint of choice.  Otherwise its bonding strength
is no better than the paint it is stuck to.  How many rusted out floors 
do you think have had their edges cleaned to bare clean steel before
being repaired?  (if that is what you call a pop riveted, glued in
floor).  It ought to be obvious that safety is not the main concern of
any of us.  otherwise we would be riding around in a main battle tank
with a 30 hp motor and a 6 point racing harness.


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