<VV> Idle problem - Again!
tampatexan at earthlink.net
Fri Mar 11 23:07:10 EST 2005
To everyone that posted suggestions to my idle problem, thank you. The
problem was finally discovered by the Carbmeister -- plugged idle tube
and misaligned emulsion tube (or something like that).. anyway, it now
runs fine... tomorrow I will take it off the jackstands and move it out
of the garage (which will please my wife to no end!)...
'65 Monza Coupe
'66 Monza Coupe (Group Red)
Larry Forman wrote:
> At 07:46 PM 3/3/2005 -0500, Jim Houston wrote:
>> Well, taking all of the suggestions, I have reset the valves, removed
>> the carbs and checked them again, checked the timing, etc. The
>> engine still refuses to idle.. if I let the rpm drop below 1200, it
>> just stalls out and quits... Anybody have any other ideas??
>> Jim Houston
>> Brandon, FL
> Hi Jim,
> While this is a long shot, it might be worth checking, just because.
> If your crank shaft timing gear has slipped then all bets are off.
> The fastest way to check it is fully explained in the Corsa Tech Guide
> and Bob Helt's book. Drain the oil, and drop the oil pan, hand rotate
> the engine to the compression stroke on number 1 cylinder with engine
> TDC. Crawl under car and check for "the mark" on the cam gear and see
> if it is lined up with the engine block case split right at the bottom
> of the gear. You will need to view looking backward below the bell
> FWIW, my unknown history 140 pullout had a crank gear slipped between
> 3 and 4 TEETH. It is a wonder it even would run at all or didn't mash
> all the valves. While most would not be that far off, having the
> valve timing off will definitely affect engine running. This is a
> check for each time you are assembling an engine or for those
> particularly pesky mysterious engine problems.
> You could also try advancing or retarding the engine when you are at
> 1200 and then see if you can lower the engine idle. If you are able
> to get it to run better when off of correct timing, then drop the
> pan. Also check that the harmonic balancer marks are aligned. If
> not, that would fool you into misadjusting the timing and affecting idle.
> Does the timing stay rock solid? Also, watch the dwell angle and see
> if it is staying constant. Do you run points or Ignitor and if
> Ignitor, which model?
> Finally, "When in doubt, swap it out!" (I mean the ignition coil)
> Simple, quick and relatively inexpensive to change. If you have a
> stock ignition coil you are WAY overdue for replacing it. Replace it
> regardless. These can make the engine run funny in many ways. Also
> check for a fat spark when holding a spark plug lead about 1/4 inch
> from ground.
> Finally, and then some, you can make your own cylinder balance
> checker by taking a WELL grounded clip lead and an opened paper clip
> and short successively each ignition wire at the distributor cap,
> having pulled back the rubber nipples before starting the engine.
> The cylinders with no affect have the problem. Best if you can lower
> the idle somewhat. Yes, I remember, that IS your problem!
> Let us know what you find.
> -- Larry
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