<VV> re;floor patch

[Tony Underwood]

At 03:26 hours 05/31/2005, tom zimmermann wrote:
>..if you have a 'buzz box',,just get a 3/16" carbon rod and a couple 3' 
>everdure rods;;put a 'crayon 'point on the (easily broken) carbon,and set 
>at low 30-amp range,mabe 20 amp...Garth,any help here?..touch OMLY the 
>everdure rod,and 'braze' 1/2" long spots..no flame to warp,arc controls 
>'heat',you can get close-touch the rod for less,longer arc for hotter ..i 
>think there's a powdered flux,like Boraxo,you can use,not absolutely 
>required if the steel is ground clean,or on galvanized,like furnace 
>duct..Tom/former tin-knocker



What ever happened to mig-spotting sheet metal panels in place before 
running a  bead?   I do this, never warped a panel be it floors or outside 
sheet metal.   A bit of line-up, then a small spot here, three inches later 
another little spot, etc.   After the panel is on place and checked for 
warps or fit (which is easily corrected since the panel is secured in place 
by only a few small spot-welds) you can go back and add additional spots 
between the ones already there, checking for warps along the way, and once 
you're down to an inch or so between spots, you can run a bead with the mig 
welder and follow up with an angle grinder/sander with a 20-grit disk to 
knock down the high spots.

Don't forget to have a clean surface to weld to or the mig welder is gonna 
spatter and sputter and flash and in general behave angrily.   In other 
words, don't attempt to weld to rust.

IMHO the mig welder was invented to secure automotive replacement sheet 
metal.   Everything else it's good for is just gravy over the roast.


tony..