<VV> Air compressor distribution lines
lclarkpdx at gmail.com
Mon Oct 31 18:16:41 EST 2005
As another pipe fitter (but who has since changed careers), I find that I
need to "pipe in". John stated that schedule 40 is schedule 40 regardless of
the material. That is true, but schedule 40 does not give you the strength
of the pipe, it is merely the wall thickness of the pipe. Schedule 40 PVC is
NOT as strong as Schedule 40 iron.
On 10/31/05, Rt66Vairs at aol.com <Rt66Vairs at aol.com> wrote:
> I've only been fitting pipe for 35 years or so. So my opinions on this may
> not be valid.
> First choice for air lines... Type K Copper... You can use 95-5 solder for
> most applications.
> Always use 95-5 solder for threaded adapters.
> Silver Solder or SilPhos is better but don't use it on treaded adapters.
> additional heat
> will soften them enough that getting a good seal and it being permanent
> be a problem.
> The copper fitting can become anealed by the additional heat required.
> Second choice... Type L Copper... Install in the same way as type K.
> Third choice.... Schedule 40 iron... The copper isn't actually that much
> better but it's much
> easier to install.
> If water in the air is a BIG problem invest in a refrigerated air dryer if
> you are doing a lot of
> painting. It will make you life much easier.
> If you are using an oil lubed compressor install oil traps and a
> filter BEFORE the
> air dryer.
> If you are only operating pneumatic tools install air drains and watch
> and use them. You
> can install timed solenoid valves that will blow these down for you
> regularly and take you're
> forgetter out of the "cause of failure" loop.
> Finally... Distribute the air at tank pressure and install regulators at
> points of use. A
> moisture trap at that point can be a good idea. But if have thoroughly
> the air after the
> tank they may not be needed.
> Trust me on one thing... Water in our air systems is NOT our friend.
> Don't ask me how I know this.
> Tim Abney
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