<VV> Steering Box Replacement

[Shaun]

Ron, you don't need to remove the arm from the box when replacing the box,
only when rebuilding the box.
Make the disconnection at the bushing when replacing. When rebuilding, use a
bigger puller.

yea, Vairily ... Shaun

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron" <ronh at owt.com>
To: "Tim Verthein" <minoxphotographer at yahoo.com>; <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: <VV> Steering Box Replacement


> I've spent years removing the pitman arm from the gear box.  Pullers get
> bent to uselessness, propane bottles get emptied, nothing works.  And oh
> yes, I've tried the two hammer system until I was exhausted.  The pitman
arm
> is still on the box in a corner somewhere.
>
> RonH
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Tim Verthein" <minoxphotographer at yahoo.com>
> To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 5:14 AM
> Subject: <VV> Steering Box Replacement
>
>
> > You might remember earlier discussions about my "crunchy steering" and
> > "occasional looseness" that I've suffered with my '64 this past
> > cruising season. Discussion pointed toward steering box troubles.
> >
> > Well, let me just say, that steering box replacement is pretty easy.
> > Especially when your son does it for you!  He and a friend did the job
> > in about two hours.  This included cleaning the garage enough to roll
> > his '65 out, and drive mine in, and getting the front end up as high as
> > my jackstands would go.  Near as I can tell from my observatory
> > position, they pretty much did exactly what the book said, with minimal
> > complications. Pulled the steering wheel and the left horn, removed
> > pitman arm from the box, took out three bolts, and that was it. The
> > only hitch I noted was when they were replacing the steering wheel..and
> > I noticed a spring and plastic sleeve sitting in the back window behind
> > the driver, that had apparently rocketed itself there when they removed
> > it..and they had to pull the wheel and put it where it went.
> >
> > The old box shaft turns pretty good..untill you get to the horribly
> > crunchy spots.  And the threaded end where the steering wheel goes had
> > about 3/4 inch area in the center of the threaded part where the
> > threads were completely chewed off. A previous owner had put a metal
> > spacer on the shaft inside the steering wheel where the nuts goes, so
> > when tightened the nut didn't travel down to the stripped area!
> >
> > Final analasys? It wasn't a huge pain in the butt from what I could
> > see. And it made a WORLD of difference! Since I've had the car the
> > steering has never been this smooth and easy turning. It's almost like
> > moving from old manual steering to power steering (yes, the old box was
> > hard to turn..very hard in fact but I didn't know the difference). No
> > more crunching sounds, mysterious loud "crack" sounds, or spontaneous
> > wandering.  Definitly worth the three hundred bucks. I guess I'll get
> > $95 of that back for the core when I send the old one back to
> > Clarks..assuming the internal crunchiness and stripped threads on the
> > end of the shaft don't disqualify me!
> >
> > Oh..you might wonder how I talked Ryan into doing the job? As you
> > probably know his car is getting very close to being a car and he needs
> > a battery. Told him if he helped put in my steering box I'd buy him a
> > battery, next thing I knew he and his friend had the job half done! And
> > besides, he's been working on his car constantly for about 10 days and
> > he's already permanently dirty! I imagine he may have a more detailed
> > report on the actual job, so stay tuned.
> >
> > Tim Verthein
> > Beautiful downtown Bovey, MN
> > Population 637 and no stoplights.
> >
> > ===
> > You *can* repair a flip-flop with a capacitor!
> > ===
> >
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