<VV> smoking engine

Ron ronh at owt.com
Fri Jul 7 16:15:12 EDT 2006

No, don't turn your engine into a smog machine, leave the closed crankcase 
system as it is as it makes good sense and works well unless something else 
is screwed up.  All we need to do is have a few owners disconnect the closed 
system to get a law or two which will cause real hardship on all owners of 
older cars and it could escalate up to banning them from the roads 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan & Synde" <dsjkling at sbcglobal.net>
To: <dfamily at cecomet.net>
Cc: "Virtual Vairs Submission" <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 12:48 PM
Subject: RE: <VV> smoking engine

> Hi Dennis,
> I tend to agree with Matt Nall on it possibly being the PCV system, it is
> what you added to the mix.  You said it was okay before that.  When you 
> say
> you bypassed it, did you completely remove and make a road draft tube?
> I've been running .030 pistons in my Greenbrier, has over 100,000 miles on
> them and no puffs of blue smoke at all.  It does use about a quart between
> oil changes at 4,000 miles.  I measured the bores at 100,000 and there was
> very little wear or taper.  I'm running Moly rings.
> Many, many Corvair people run overbores.  I'm getting ready to put a set 
> of
> .040 cylinders in our UltraVan with no reservations.  .060 is the max most
> people will run however because the cylinder walls above that become very
> thin.  I don't think the overbore is your problem.
> I'd remove the PCV system all together, run a line from the crankcase tube
> down and out so it becomes a road draft tube like the early Corvairs had.
> Take it out for a drive and see what happens.
> If it continues, then I'd start thinking scored cylinders.  Might want to
> pull the top engine crankcase cover and have a look-see.  I think that is
> the easiest way to have a look at the cylinders.  Doesn't require removing
> the heads.
> The engine is quiet?  No weird noised from the valve train?  No knocks?
> Pull the plugs, do they look oily.  If you find one or two that are oily,
> that's where you need to focus your attention.
> Never had the problem with rings rotating and aligning themselves causing
> oil burning, I suppose it could happen.  When I've had to pull a
> cylinder/piston apart, the rings seem to be in the same general location I
> put them in when installing.  Seems to me, they quickly take a seat and 
> stay
> located.  What would cause them to rotate?
> Dan Kling
> 1961 Greenbrier Deluxe, 4spd, 3.89  On the Road Again,  yeehaw :)
> 1963 Spyder, restored   4spd Saginaw
> 1967 Ultravan #299  Newest of the herd!! Almost killed me already!!
> http://photos.yahoo.com/duchesskyra
> A few pictures of the Greenbrier, UltraVan, engine and tranny tear down 
> with
> more to come!
> Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2006 13:04:31 -0400
> From: "Dennis Dorogi" <dfamily at cecomet.net>
> Subject: <VV> smoking engine
> To: <BobHelt at aol.com>, <virtualvairs at corvair.org>,
> <corvanatics at corvair.org>
> Message-ID: <003301c6a1e7$6a428720$0201a8c0 at ruthaewjqhvksx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> I guess I made the wrong decision in using bored out cylinders.  I just
> wanted a bit more power, but there was no real reason.  So a minimum bore 
> is
> the way to go.   But where do I go from here?  I guess it is either live
> with the problem, quite severe yesterday, or new cylinders, piston, and
> rings.  Thanks for the information. Dennis Dorogi


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