<VV> smoking engine

[Western Canada CORSA]

I've got a 140 in my RS that I left with the old Road Draft Tube.  It's a
"rebuilt" motor I picked up cheap, and I've got a bit of a blowby problem,
at high revs it'll push oil out the dipstick tube. (new bearings, new rings,
looked like NOS 140 heads) I'm going to modify the early aircleaners to
accept the later PCV system, and hopefully it will solve my dipstick tube
issues.

Regards,
Joel

-----Original Message-----
From: virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org
[mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org]On Behalf Of Dan & Synde
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 12:48 PM
To: dfamily at cecomet.net
Cc: Virtual Vairs Submission
Subject: RE: <VV> smoking engine


Hi Dennis,

I tend to agree with Matt Nall on it possibly being the PCV system, it is
what you added to the mix.  You said it was okay before that.  When you say
you bypassed it, did you completely remove and make a road draft tube?  

I've been running .030 pistons in my Greenbrier, has over 100,000 miles on
them and no puffs of blue smoke at all.  It does use about a quart between
oil changes at 4,000 miles.  I measured the bores at 100,000 and there was
very little wear or taper.  I'm running Moly rings. 

Many, many Corvair people run overbores.  I'm getting ready to put a set of
.040 cylinders in our UltraVan with no reservations.  .060 is the max most
people will run however because the cylinder walls above that become very
thin.  I don't think the overbore is your problem.  

I'd remove the PCV system all together, run a line from the crankcase tube
down and out so it becomes a road draft tube like the early Corvairs had.
Take it out for a drive and see what happens.  

If it continues, then I'd start thinking scored cylinders.  Might want to
pull the top engine crankcase cover and have a look-see.  I think that is
the easiest way to have a look at the cylinders.  Doesn't require removing
the heads.

The engine is quiet?  No weird noised from the valve train?  No knocks?
Pull the plugs, do they look oily.  If you find one or two that are oily,
that's where you need to focus your attention.

Never had the problem with rings rotating and aligning themselves causing
oil burning, I suppose it could happen.  When I've had to pull a
cylinder/piston apart, the rings seem to be in the same general location I
put them in when installing.  Seems to me, they quickly take a seat and stay
located.  What would cause them to rotate? 

Dan Kling

1961 Greenbrier Deluxe, 4spd, 3.89  On the Road Again,  yeehaw :)
1963 Spyder, restored   4spd Saginaw
1967 Ultravan #299  Newest of the herd!! Almost killed me already!!


http://photos.yahoo.com/duchesskyra
A few pictures of the Greenbrier, UltraVan, engine and tranny tear down with
more to come! 


Message: 4
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2006 13:04:31 -0400
From: "Dennis Dorogi" <dfamily at cecomet.net>
Subject: <VV> smoking engine
To: <BobHelt at aol.com>, <virtualvairs at corvair.org>,
	<corvanatics at corvair.org>
Message-ID: <003301c6a1e7$6a428720$0201a8c0 at ruthaewjqhvksx>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

I guess I made the wrong decision in using bored out cylinders.  I just
wanted a bit more power, but there was no real reason.  So a minimum bore is
the way to go.   But where do I go from here?  I guess it is either live
with the problem, quite severe yesterday, or new cylinders, piston, and
rings.  Thanks for the information. Dennis Dorogi