<VV> Strange (?) double failure

[Frank DuVal]

Roger Gault wrote:

>Hi, Ned,
>No this is an indication that:
>a) the studs weren't ever tightened, or
>b) the taper is wrong on the studs.
>If they were right and tight, it would have taken 8 gorillas and a stream of
>cuss words to get them to break loose.  If you tighten them down and then
>remove the nut and the studs come back loose, you have a taper problem.
>
>Roger
>  
>


And if you take the nuts off now:
a. If the ball joint part spins in the knuckle (spindle) then one of the 
tapers is bad ( recently I had a knucle taper too big on a 64 Spyder but 
the ball joint taper was fine) and needs replacing.
b. If the taper holds and the nut unscrews fine, see if the taper joint 
will separate with a very slight hammer blow.
b1. If it does separate, again see if either taper shows wear and 
replace as necessary.
b2. If it does not separate easily, drive on after replacing the nuts 
and cotter keys (pins).

As Roger says, It should take one or more good dual hammer blows ( see 
shop manual on how to remove taper joints without damaging the rubber 
boots ) to get the joint apart even when it has just been assembled.

Frank DuVal