<VV> misfire (technical)

[Eric S. Eberhard]

It could also be a bad plug.  I don't know the scientific details, 
but the timing light only works if there is an actual spark.  If you 
have an old dead plug, try it out :-) but you won't get a pulse on 
that wire except perhaps right by the distributor ... I suspect if 
the power has no place to go (e.g. dead plug) it can't pulse.  It is 
of course very cheap and easy for you to test this (swap two plugs).  eric

At 04:06 PM 10/24/2006, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 10/22/2006 2:48:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>kovacsmj at sbcglobal.net writes:
>
>I  then discovered that when I checked with the timing light on 2 & 6 that
>there was a steady pulse. However #4 had a steady pulse only near the
>distributor and an interrupted pulse near the spark plug. It 
>obviously was not  firing
>all the time. What the heck is up with that?
>
>The wires are brand new 7 mm from reputable vendor. Is there  a possibility
>the wire is broken internally? The plugs are also new  r44.
>
>
>
>It is possible that the wire is bad (even if new). There are a few things
>you can try. Do you have the old wire set? You could substitute the 
>old #4 or #6
>  wire for the suspected one and see if the miss stops. There are two wire
>failure  modes, either of which will cause a failure of spark. 
>First, the wire
>can be  internally broken - usually resulting in a very high ohms 
>rating vs. the
>other  wires. An ohm meter will tell the tale. Usually though, the plug wire
>will show  now pulse, even right next to the distributor cap, since the
>electricity has no  where to go. Second, a wire can be shorted to 
>ground somewhere
>along the length  of the wire. This can happen when placed in the clips that
>restrain the wire  underneath the belt. In this case, the spark goes 
>to ground
>and never makes it  to the plug. It would much rather take the 
>"short" route to
>ground, than jump  the high pressure gap within the combustion chamber. -
>Seth  Emerson
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