<VV> Re: Timing, Distributor, Carbs, Vacuum Problems???

[LastHamlet]

Many Thanks for all the emails and replys. Maybe I
better add just a bit more info to clear things
further. I also changed many other parts in the course
of this problem hunt, and some were not related, but
were good ideas to go ahead while I was in
there.(Coils, shocks, entire front end, brakes,
Clark's tranny pan & oil pan with baffler and longer
oil pickup unit, heater moter & all hoses, completely
redone the underbody pan, and restored all new
items.(More than I can list) 
Most all parts came from Clark's, and all were the
correct parts, according to their numbers. The Dizzy
was part#1110319. I am also currently using an
electric fuel pump, and two additional fuel
filters(Inline/Proline type.). I have always used
Premium Gas in the car, (And sometimes a bit of Lucas
Fuel Additive) though admittedly have only been 1000
miles in all the trials and test I have taken in the
last year. Replaced the harmonic balancer with a (I
know overpriced) 2 piece nodular steel high-end, new
one from Clark's. Replaced tension pulley and engine
to body seal. replaced single exhaust with welded
factory -style dual exhaust. My wires are new 8mm
silicone, and new plugs(although, I may need to check
current firing condition of plugs). Went through
several carbs, and still at times a very very small
leak at the inlet on the driver's side carb. They are
a matched set of premium rebuilts from Clark's, and
appear to be an excellent specimen of the likes.
Matching holes near the ventri of each carb would
indicate such.
I also replaced the carb to linkage rods with the
swivel kind, and bearing blocks installed on the
linkage shaft itself.(This to take any slop out of
linkage) Believe me when I say, I have changed evry
possible part that could be needing replacing. So, it
may bring me to several issues pointed out by members
here.
1) Someone suggested Tranny issues for the chugging,
but I am not sure, as it seems to loose complete
engine power, as opposed foward motion power.(Though,
I am not the one to determine this. 
2) It is possible that seeing how the dizzy was the
only part I did not get from Clark's but a distributor
who bought out Arrow, it could be the weights in it.
(I already replaced the vacuum can, even though it is
a remanufactured dizzy, I didn't know if the can was
matching. (Still I don't know, as there is only one
available for cars at Clark's, but that is the current
one on the vehicle.
3) One of the other parts, even though new, or reman.,
may be faulty
4) it could likely be my vacuum, or linkage not tweek
in perfect, cause as I mentioned I am not that good of
a mechanic. Though, when you open the hood, it looks
like a museum quality engine, that still don't mean
things are properly tweeked.
MOST LIKELY:
5) I have not the finesse to do this type of tweeking,
and have replaced too many parts without the knowledge
of what I am doing, and cannot get them to work
together.(Maybe I am a De De De!!!)

I would like to thank All the people who are sending
responses, cause I had no where else to turn. One
fellow sent me an email, and has a shop in NC,(Shepard
Automotive), only a couple of normal-hours drive from
me.(Although, I will be traveling in the wee hours,
going no faster than 55MPH.) So, before I pull the
rest of my old grey hair out, I better take it to him,
as I am sure you may all agree. It is becomming
painfully obvious that I am in over my head and could
spin in circles trying to figure this out. I did
mention I have spent 7-months on this problem, cause
that is no lie, I have. With that said, I will report
back and tell of exactly what he discovered. I am
willing to bet, even beforehand, it may be making
everyuthing sync together, or something silly I
overlooked. 
Here is a footnote for interests. Although, I still
need a little body work, and a good paint job, I have
over 25K in her already. Only one other fellow was
allowed to work on her, when I first got her. This
place was not familiar with Corvair's at all, and I
ended up with a Pitman arm bushing pressed in upside
down(How he did it I will never know), and a smashed
gas tank from inproper jacking. Wait, there is more!!!
Rounded out my new camber washers on the front and
rear, trying to aline the vehicle, without jacking it
up. And, here was the part that steamed me... My
rear-end was leaking worse than before, but now it was
leaking RED FLUID.... Oh yes he did put tranny fluid
in my rea-end differential. Needless to say I have a
custom hose for my shop vac, and had some cleaning and
new seals to put in. (Did a complete
driveshaft/U-Joint install as well, while I was in
there.) 
So, you can imagine how happy I was to receive an
email from somebody who knows how to work on
Corvair's. I have been so scared to even let anybody
rotate my tires, so when they need it, I will do it. I
was able to even do the wheel alinment myself, and
that is really a breeze. To tell you the truth,
putting in that factory-style welded dual exhaust was
real easy, even including putting in both new heat
sheilds. I only wished all the other projects were
that easy.
So, barring a few more experiments, I am still headed
to Shepard's this week, cause I feel out of my league.

Best Regards,
Danny Barber

If anybody needs any parts they have been looking for,
perhaps I can help you out. Be most glad to return the
favor.


> I am new at this so please be kind. I have been
> working on a problem for 7 months now, and it has me
> stumped.
> I own a 67 Corvair Convertible with factory A/C and
> PG
> Tranny. Odd thing is, that in that year, in the
> later
> part, of which mine is, they had a different listed
> timing spec that the rest of the year's production
> model. (24 degrees BTDC)on a 67 corvair with 110HP-2
> carb, flat six with PG and A/C with a wider timing
> mark plate which also registered up to 24 degrees. I
> have spoke to many people, and all have said that is
> likely a missprint, but I have a lot of papers and
> such to the contrary. Although, after playing with
> it
> a little, I have to agree that 24 degrees as a base
> timing number can only work for one Corvair, being a
> 180HP turbo-charged flat six that came in some 66
> models. 
>   Nonetheless, here's the problem and admittidly I
> am
> not that good a mechanic, but have done all the work
> so far to this little sweetie.
>  Initially, I was having a chugging at 60-65 MPH
> going
> up an average hill. What did I do??? Oh God, you
> might
> not want to know, but I will say anyhow... First, I
> replaced the fuel tank, sending unit, fuel lines,
> and
> carbs. It still chugged, so I changed the
> distributor(But still maybe not correct vacuum
> advance???), of course all the wires and plugs, and
> even changed the existing Petronics with a
> Petronics-2
> and Flamethrower-2 Coil setup.... Still chugged and
> jerked. (Plus, some up and down idle issues.)
>   I got all kinds of silly advice, from a wire from
> the battery to the starter, to odd suggestions. Most
> of which I discarded, but several ideas I went with,
> cause they posed no harm, and I did intend to make a
> full-restore of it anyhow. So, I changed the entire
> wiring harnesses(end to end w/exact repro's, as I am
> a
> good electrical man, just not that knowing of
> combustion engines.) I changed the voltage
> regulator,
> and heat sensors. One time I must have had the
> vacuum
> advance/Vacuum advance set wrong, cause the only way
> I
> could get her to run at all was to use a restrictor
> valve inline from carb vac to advance can. At that
> point I realized 24 degrees was no the right timing,
> no matter what the papers said.
>  Plus, to make it confusing even more, before I
> bought
> the car, she was rebuilt with forged pistons and
> Deeves rings(.020 0ver), and a stock cam, so I
> really
> didn't know if that would change my timing setup, or
> vacuum advance specs or what??? I just didn't know.
> I have tried several manners of adjusting the
> timing,
> be it total timing(Centrifigul+Base) and even
> checked
> total of advance. However, without know what the
> target I am shooting for is, I may be lost? Idle is
> close, but the best base timing I have found so far
> is
> 8 degrees BTDC, and still I cannot get her to run up
> a
> hill over 60 MPH, and really, not run at all, over
> that speed, like it is cutting out, chugging and or
> flooding???
> About to loose my mables, any idelas?
> All The Best Regards,
> Danny Barber
> Haw River, North Carolina
> 
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 9
> Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 10:05:01 EDT
> From: Ebarr19 at aol.com
> Subject: Re: <VV> Re: VirtualVairs Digest, Vol 20,
> Issue 107
> To: lasthamlet at yahoo.com, virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Message-ID: <c5b.19f0e36.3242a48d at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> 
> Danny
>   From what you have stated, I would check the
> distributor weights to  see if 
> they are in backwards, I had that happen once and
> also had loss of  power.
>  Gene Barr 
> 



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