<VV> Need garage ideas (no Corvair)

Frank DuVal corvairduval at cox.net
Tue Aug 7 11:41:10 EDT 2007


More comments within,,,

BBRT wrote:

> Comments within........
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <JVHRoberts at aol.com>
> To: <latin81 at comcast.net>; <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 5:33 PM
> Subject: Re: <VV> Need garage ideas (no Corvair)
>
>
>
> Hmmm... run at least one 20 amp 120V circuit, and at least one 30 amp  
> 240V
> circuit, for welders, big air compressors, etc.
> *** The more outlets around the garage the better. Code may dictate 
> they be up around waist high. I would have at least two on each wall, 
> and would prefer one on the wall between the doors and near the 
> doors.  You can then use lights or corded appliances without such long 
> extension cords running underfoot. 


The NEC (National Electric Code) does not care where you place the 
receptacles in a garage, but fire code sometimes likes them above 18" 
off the floor for areas where gasoline may be present. Local 
interpretation may have other ideas. NEC will require 120V receptacles 
in a concrete floor garage to be GFCI protected unless dedicated to a 
piece of equipment ( freezer, sump pump, etc). If you have a dedicated 
bench, place receptacles convienient for that also.

The more receptacles the better. Better chance of not blocking them with 
equipment and storage units. I like them every 5 to 6 feet.

Also, know your loads. My welder needs a 50 amp 240 volt receptacle. My 
compressor also needs 40 amps at 240, etc.

> If you can, running the air compressor outside on a slab and then put 
> a box-fiberglass, or  built on to the house, whatever, but it keeps 
> the noise outside. And doesn't take up room.


Great idea to keep you sane!


> LOTS of T8, 4 foot fluorescents (less energy, electronic ballasts, starts
> down to 0ºF).
> ***If you can afford it, they make covered and protected smaller 
> flourescents that have a pig tail (cord w/ plug) and are 
> self-contained. Mount on wall vertically near floor.  I am installing 
> a couple between the garage doors to get light at the "other" end of 
> the car. Some of these can be used portably as well.


Light under car is important. Avoid placing lights only over the car. 
Lights need to be over the space not occupied by the car also, so it can 
reflect back under the car.

>
> Mini split heat pump, 24,000 BTU. Gets heating and air conditioning 
> all in
> one shot, and non combustion heat! And no shared equipment with the 
> rest of the
> house.
>
> Insulated doors with good weatherstrips are a MUST! As is general 
> insulation
> overall. You'll be glad you did when it gets REALLY cold.
> ****Buy the steel insulated doors. They come with good weatherstrips.
>
> Not a big fan of floor paint, I've seen too much of it chewed up by jack
> stands, floor jacks, brown spots from tires, etc.
> **** The big buck epoxies will stand up to it. They do make a gray 
> concrete one step epoxy floor paint that might do it. Any of the clear 
> sealers  are not worth it.
>
> Floor to ceiling shelves all along the back wall, and one side, but not
> where it'll interfere with the cars.


Most important:

You can't build it TOO BIG! Just too expensive... ;-)

Frank DuVal

>
>


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