<VV> PG transmission adjustment (long, long, long)

[Stephen Upham]

	From what I read in the '65 Service Manual, I don't think that I  
have a neutral safety switch adjustment problem.  The car will not  
crank in any position on the transmission selector lever.  The dash  
lights do nothing in L,D and R (or anything in between) when the key  
is turned.  The Gen/Fan lights dim when the key is turned in N to  
crank the engine and quickly go back to normal when the pressure on  
the key is released.  There is no sound whatsoever that would  
indicate that it is trying to crank.  The electric fuel pump chugs  
merrily away.  The battery IS grounded to the chassis and there are  
grounding straps (4) in place on the shroud.  This car started just  
fine before I began work on the transmission valve inner gear and  
subsequent readjustment of the throttle rod from the tunnel and the  
throttle rod through the firewall.  All that I did was to bend back  
the offending bent tine on the transmission valve inner gear that had  
caused the weird shifting and no downshift back to its factory 90  
degrees, and put the cover back on.
	The following is how I adjusted the downshift - written earlier but  
I used a copy and paste because I'm TIRED, so if it sounds weird ... :
When the belcrank arm is fully extended out from the transmission  
(again, this is the normal expected play), the transmission valve  
inner gear stops just before contacting the end of the manual valve  
and the position on the arm of the belcrank looks just like the  
picture in the '65 Service Manual p. 7-34 illustration 7E-7.  Well, I  
put a brick on the gas pedal and then rotated the belcrank arm to  
full detent (visually checking as I have the pan off - [done before  
putting the pan on in paragraph 1]).  I then adjusted the swivel  
connection on the throttle rod to the tunnel to fit in the belcrank  
arm at that position.  I then connected the throttle rod that runs to  
the engine to the belcrank.  I went to the engine compartment and  
used a mini-bungee to secure the throttle cross rod between the carbs  
to the wide open position.  I then adjusted the swivel on the  
throttle arm (plus five turns to the rear) and inserted it in the  
crossover bar slot and secured it with the return spring.  I returned  
to the cabin and took off the brick.  I then returned to the engine  
compartment, released the bungee, and viola, it sprang back to the  
idle position smooth as silk.  I then went to the belcrank and  
manually moved it CW as far as it would go during a full throttle  
engagement.  It looked like the bent tine on the transmission valve  
inner gear will easily engage the detent valve assembly and press it  
against its anvil and not slip back past the nut on the end of the  
valve as it had before.
	The problem is that adjusting it this way leaves the belcrank arm  
connection to the tunnel throttle rod a 1/2" above the gasket on the  
pan at idle.  I know that isn't the correct position as it should be  
just below the gasket.  I can adjust the swivel on the throttle to  
the tunnel and the throttle through the firewall to allow this to  
happen, but then the the transmission valve (detent valve) will not  
fully compress and seat.  Now that I'm writing this, the thought  
occurs that the transmission valve inner gear has shifted on the  
shaft and probably needs to be removed.  I tried that when I had the  
pan off and it didn't budge (yes, I removed the retaining bolt first)  
and so, I was loath to do it for fear of breaking something in the  
process.

First, if the belcrank arm is where I indicated in the last  
paragraph, would that cause the problem I'm experiencing (no crank in  
N)?

Second, if that is the case, would adjusting the belcrank arm to have  
the proper position as per the illustration 7E-7, but forego the  
kickdown ability, be an alternative until the end of the Convention  
when I can take it to my friendly club member's house to help me take  
off the offending inner gear under a watchful eye.

Third, forget about it, I'm headed back into the bottom of the  
transmission, again because removing the inner gear is something even  
I can do without breaking something else (careful how you answer if  
you don't know my history working on this car) because otherwise I  
will be waiting another two weeks to drive the car.

Thoughts on what to do next?

Stephen Upham
Dallas, Texas
Corvaireum //

Mid prod. #18732 -1965 Monza Hardtop 110
Sierra Tan, originally (currently Copper) - Saddle, PG, A/C, original  
AM/FM, clock, tint, oil bath air filter, vertical bumper guards, rust  
free, w/ 77K
(back in group red after one week of fun)