<VV> Front Suspension Rebuilt Advice - Consolidated Advice - Long!!

[Keith Onchuck]

I have been overwhelmed by responses to the following
request:

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I am looking for some advice from the experts. This
winter I want to drop the entire front suspension on
my 64. I will be replacing all bushings, worn steering
parts, rebuild the steering box, replace springs,
rebuild brakes and install a dual master cylinder. I
figure it is best to do this all in one shot. 

I do not think my suspension has been touched since
the car was built. I have been spraying all the bolts
(that I can get to) with CRC and WD40. Does anyone
have any words of advice prior to me undertaking this
project? Any lessons learned from removing the bolts
that go into the blind nuts in the chassis? My fear is
the bolts break off and I cannot get the nuts replaced
to reinstall the front cross member. 

***********************************************************************************

I thought I would compile a list of the responses so
others can learn from this as well.

There were a few suggestions that I received multiple
times:

Use PB Blaster on all bolts multiple times so it can
soak in for a while.  Keep spraying the bolts while
removing them to keep lubricated and avoid snapping
them.

Remove the coil springs while the cross member is
still attached to the car and install after the cross
member is back in the car.  Try to remove as much from
the cross member while it is still in the car.

Take multiple pictures along the way for reference and
to document the job.  There is nothing like reviewing
before and after pictures to take pride in your handy
work.

The cross member bolts up to the chassis with 6 bolts
that have blind nuts.  There are metal retainers that
hold the nuts in place.  If you snap off a bolt you
may be able to install a new nut by prying up the
retainer.  

A torch is very useful for this project.  Do not be
afraid to heat and cool the rusty bolts to try and
break them free.  Use caution with the torch if the
gas tank is still in the car.  The tank can be removed
without removal of the suspension; only the sway bar
needs to be removed to lower the tank.

An alternative to rebuilding the steering box is to
purchase a Flaming River quick steering box.  Seth
Emerson (sethracer at aol.com) has adapters for the 1964
car.

It is wise to drop the gas tank, replace all rubber
hoses on the filler neck and overflow.  It is also
wise to replace the steel brake line that is easily
accessibly when the tank is out.

Do not try to salvage the caster adjusting strut /
control rod.  They are usually very rusty where they
pass through the frame.  Purchase new nuts and
bushings at the same time.

Patience is a virtue, if a bolt won’t budge, soak it
with PB again and take a break.  

Make sure to pay close attention when removing parts. 
Tag and bag bolts for reuse or to take to the hardware
store and purchase new.  Use stainless steel hardware
whenever possible.  

Tag the upper and lower control for right and left
side.  Use a punch or some other mark so you have a
reference upon reinstallation.  Clean and sandblast
the parts then paint to help preserve them.

Get the book how to align your Corvair.  It is a
fantastic and easy to use reference since it will need
to be realigned.  Also make sure to keep track of all
the shims that are removed for reinstallation.

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That is it for the first round of information but I
plan to keep this as a living breathing document.   I
will take many pictures and keep copious notes so I
can write this up when I am done.  Outside of the
rusty bolts this does not really scare me much.  Last
year I dropped the tank to replace the filler lines. 
While I was there I kept soaking the bolts with CRC. 
Based upon the knowledge base here I should have used
PB.  I will start spraying the bolts with that for
now.  

I figure I have at least one more month of driving
before I start this project.

Thanks for all the excellent feedback; I appreciate
everyone’s willingness to share their experiences.

Keith



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