<VV> Carb update

[Stephen Upham]

Well, I had to use the Monza as my Probe GT blew a main (100 amp)  
fuse in the engine compartment while in the middle of an intersection  
in downtown Dallas.  I'm at a loss for that one also.  Anywho, I had  
to drive the Monza.  It was leaking at both carbs with the pump on  
but the engine off.  I figured the problem just had to be before the  
carbs.  Why would a carb that had been functioning correctly start to  
malfunction when the car hadn't even been driven?  I tried to check  
the pressure on the fuel pump line after the pressure regulator with  
a gauge that I bought from Harbor Freight.  It showed that I had 1/2  
lb. of pressure when the regulator was set at 2 lbs. ???  The pump  
was also making a tapping sound like it does when it isn't getting  
enough fuel to pump.   I decided to set the regulator at 1 lb. and  
see what happened.  I put a line from the fuel line in a pint glass  
jar and started the pump.  It filled about half of the jar in a  
matter of four or five seconds (memory here).  I reattached the fuel  
lines and went to sleep (11:30).  The next morning, I started her up  
and drove her to work; about six miles of city streets.  She was  
idling rough and acting like she wanted to die, so I stepped up the  
idle.  I made it to work as she drove fine; just didn't like to  
idle.  The adjustment allowed her to keep from dying, but she still  
had a slight rocking motion at idle.  I checked the carbs when I got  
to work and there was no leakage in the carbs - right or left!  I  
drove it like that for two days.  I checked regularly, and although  
the rocking at idle was still there, it didn't die and ran well  
although I got 11 mpg.  I decided to check the balance with a  
Unisyn.  That was weird, as the left carb was at the middle of the  
tube and the right was pegged to the top.  I tried to adjust the  
right to bring it down to no avail.  In the middle of switching from  
carb to carb to check it, the right suddenly starts to register that  
it is slightly higher than the left which I correct to balance.   She  
continues to run ok, weird idle, no leakage.  Then I balance the  
carbs per the manual.  The idles were way high, and the right carbs  
mixture screw was about three to four turns out (1 1/2 per the  
manual).  After doing that, I was able to get the right carb to leak  
again!!  It doesn't leak when the pump in on and the engine off, just  
when the car is running.  Right carb is not leaking.
Questions: if I used spring separators on the rear to lift the car,  
could that be causing this problem?   The rear is slightly higher  
than the front (1/2  t0 3/4 in) measured at the floor to chassis  
behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels.  Second, the  
pump manufacturer says to not have more than 12 inches distance  
between the pump and the bottom of the gas tank.  I have closer to 20  
in. because the pump is mounted to the body rail above and in front  
of the rear wheel straight up from where the fuel line emerges from  
under the bottom of the chassis.   Could that be something that would  
manifest itself this way?  I would think not as I drove the car for  
over three thousand miles with a less powerful pump manufactured by  
the same company with none of the problems that I'm experiencing  
now.    The lifts were the one thing (besides the brake hoses and  
cylinders) that I had done to the car before all this started.

Thanks for all of your advise and help.   Sorry to get back so many  
days later; kids, work, wife, life...

Stephen