<VV> Early transmission questions

[Lonny Clark]

Much easier to remove the whole thing on an early. A spyder needs to be
jacked up further in the air so the turbo and pipe clear.

On another note: Are you sure that the transmission needs to be rebuilt?
>From your symptoms, and especially the fact that it gets better when hot,
I'd say that your your input shaft seal is leaking. That gets some of your
gear lube onto the clutch and makes it "sticky". If the clutch doesn't
disengage, the gears will grind. If you start the car in neutral, is it hard
to get it into first gear the right after that?


Lonny


On Fri, Feb 15, 2008 at 4:58 AM, Kerry and jan B <deaconone at teleweb.net>
wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Everyone itching for Spring? I know I am...Even went so far as to go to
> storage and sit in the vert for a bit, visions of warm wind blowing
> through my hair......Alas when I went back out side it was still winter!
>
> In any case I have a couple of questions.
>
> On an early, 4 speed, can you remove the transmission by itself or is
> this another instance where you have to remove the entire power train?
>
>
> And on a related note. How hard is it to rebuild the tranny? Probably
> needs syncros  plus++  Doesn't drop out of gear except for once in a
> while in third, but does grind or is hard to get into 2nd and 3rd (seems
> worse when first starting out, improves when car is hot. (running
> Amsoil) . What's recommended to replace while its out of car. Is there a
> book or pamphlet availably that has directions/suggestions? I saw one on
> Ebay but got outbid.... Is it available anywhere else?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kerry B.
> 63 Spyder
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