<VV> [FC] metal work

[Louis Armer]

Well since you brought up copper................what about a copper gas tank???

Chuck Armer
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////
At 07:52 PM 7/8/2008, you wrote:
>??? The sweating that you are refering to for copper pipes probably 
>will not work with your sheetmetal unless you form a "J" lock of 
>some sort, very dificult to do. The process that you see for the car 
>is probably at the top seam and there is some pretty thick metal 
>right there and it can get pretty warm without warping. Also what 
>they are doing is heating the lead, not solder, to a cooler temp 
>that is just barely in the plastic stage and then sort of smearing 
>it into and onto the area that needs to be smoothed. This is just a 
>rough verbal sketch of the process, but I think you get the idea.
>
>??? Now, I think there are plans and/or pics on the Corvanatic web 
>site of a SS gas tank.
>
>
>Ken Hand
>248-613-8586
>www.corvairmechanic.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: wern3 at juno.com <wern3 at juno.com>
>To: corvanatics at corvair.org
>Sent: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 4:43 pm
>Subject: [FC] metal work
>
>
>
>I am assembling a new gas tank from sheet metal to replace the old tank that
>failed last weekend on my '61 Rampy after I tried to repair it with 
>fiberglass.
>The plan is to assemllbe it with spot welds, then seal the seams with lead
>solder or braze it tight. I once saw (in the late 70's) a crew assembling
>Impalas at the old Janesville assy. plant. They were using a gas 
>torch and what
>looked like soft lead sticks smoothed witha spatula to fill body 
>gaps where the
>roof panel joined the "C" pillar. My experiments with plumbers 
>solder and flux I
>use for sweating copper water pipes have been a failure on sheet 
>metal, Anyone
>on here know what combination of flux and solder that man was using on sheet
>metal??
>Thanks
>Tim '61 Rampy
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