<VV> Fwd: Windshield Sealing

bdjgriffith @dslextreme.com bdjgriffith at dslextreme.com
Sun Apr 10 19:26:08 EDT 2011


Do not choose Option #3. A previous owner of my 65 did that. The water will
still find a way in, then it can't get out, and the lower column and entire
lower channel will need to be replaced. Trust me, those are terrible jobs
for a novice body guy. I'm going with option 1 but will enlarge the drain
holes and add two drain tubes that extend from the lower channel down to the
rockers.

On Sun, Apr 10, 2011 at 5:37 AM, Ken Pepke <kenpepke at juno.com> wrote:

>
> The real problem here comes from the inside.  The windshield 'A' pillars
> are open to the plenum chamber so some wind and rain can blow onto their
> unfinished insides.   After welding new metal in the area a finish [POR 15]
> or something should be blown up in there then the bottom closed.
> Ken P
> Wyandotte, MI
> Worry looks around; Sorry looks back, Faith looks up.
>
>
>
> > From: Dale Dewald <dkdewald at pasty.net>
> > Date: April 8, 2011 8:09:19 PM EDT
> > To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> > Subject: <VV> Windshield Sealing
> >
> > Hello All,
> >
> > I was visiting the fellow doing the bodywork/painting on my wife's 65
> Monza
> > and we discussed ways to repair rust around the lower corners of the
> window
> > frame and how to prepare/finish that area to avoid future rust.  The car
> is
> > to be a driver (all weather, but not winter/salt), so modifications that
> > would enhance durability might be preferred over maintaining stock
> > appearance.  I will be installing a replacement windshield as the current
> > one is cracked.
> >
> > In any case we plan to weld in new metal to repair any perforations. The
> > entire area will be ground to bare metal and treated with POR15 prior to
> > finish painting.  However, the question remains how to deal with water
> > drainage in this area. Should we:
> >
> > 1) Rebuild the area as stock, except perhaps enlarging the water drain
> hole,
> >
> > 2) Create some other drain path for water that flows into this area,
> >
> > 3) Completely fill/seal the channel between the body and glass?
> >
> > If I choose option 3, I would install the glass as usual with butyl tape,
> > then fill the remaining space with clear silicone caulk and install the
> > trim, bedding it in the fresh caulk.  Additional beads of caulk on both
> > sides of the trim would seal it to the body and glass.
> >
> > Opinions are welcome, but does anyone have first hand experience and
> > results of applying option 3?  Did it work out better than the stock
> drain
> > system?
> >
> > Dale Dewald
> > Hancock, MI
>
>
>
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