<VV> Icewater Air Conditioner

William Hubbell whubbell at verizon.net
Mon Jun 13 22:29:23 EDT 2011


I had a bit of fun this weekend making an ice-water air conditioner.
Basically, this is an air conditioner that uses ice to provide cooling as
opposed to Freon, but yes, it really is an air conditioner, not a swamp
cooler.  And yes, I did make it with Corvair Parts, mostly, so it does
belong on this list. Note: photos here:
http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/580337059eTHqGs

 

Here is how I did it

 

Parts List

.         Evaporator/Blower box from an Early Model Corvair

.         Tsunami 500 GPH Cartridge Bilge Pump, 12VDC ($17.96 at walmart:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Tsunami-500-GPH-Cartridge-Bilge-Pump-12VDC/1107126
8)

.         Igloo Island Breeze 28 quart Personal Cooler ($15.88 at Walmart:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Igloo-Island-Breeze-28-Quart-Personal-Cooler/16437
966)

.         12 gauge wire (Red and Black)

.         (2) 10-amp cigarette lighter plugs (if you want to plug into
cigarette lighter - could be direct wired as well)

.         3/8 in. Brass 90-Degree Compression x MIP Elbow ($4.73 at Home
Depot:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100637959/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId
=-1
<http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100637959/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langI
d=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053> &storeId=10051&catalogId=10053")

.         3/8" barb x 3/8" FIPS brass fitting

.         Vinyl tubing in 3 sizes: 5/8" 1/2" and 3/8" (all dimensions Inside
Diameter)

.         Polyethylene pipe wrap insulation, such as here:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100572787/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId
=-1
<http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100572787/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langI
d=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053> &storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

.         Barbed tubing connectors

o   (1) 5/8" straight

o   (1) 1/2" 'T'

o   (2) 3/8" straight

.         Scraps of wood or plywood sufficient to make a stand for the
Evaporator/Blower box

.         Crimp-on wire connectors

.         (options) Hose clamps in appropriate sizes

 

 

Here is what you do (note: photo album here:
http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/580337059eTHqGs)

 

Cooler Assembly:

1.       Drill a 5/8" hole in the top of the cooler and force the 5/8" barb
connector into the hole

2.       Drill a 3/8" hole in the top of the cooler and force one of the
3/8" barb connectors into the hole

3.       Drill a hole in the top of the cooler just large enough to pass the
two pump wires through

4.       Place the pump in the bottom of the cooler and pass the wires up
through the cover using hole #3 above

5.       Cut a piece of 5/8" vinyl tubing long enough  to connect the pump
output to the 5/8" barb connector installed above (note, the pump output
tube is 3/4" but you can force the 5/8" vinyl tubing onto it with care)  The
tubing should be just long enough such that the pump will rest on the bottom
of the cooler when the lid is close but not so long as to cause a kink in
the hose.  If you want to secure it better, apply hose clamps to each end.

6.       Apply a short piece of 3/8" tubing to the underside of the 3/8"
barb in the cover.  This tubing only serves to help keep the barb from being
pulled out and is optional if your barb fits snugly in the cover.  Hose
clamp optional.

 

Evaporator Stand

1.       (Optional) If you are not installing this in a car, you need to use
the wood to build a stand to keep the evaporator box level.  I used
cardboard to template each end of the box and then transferred the template
to 1/4" plywood to create left and right sides to cradle the box, then
assembled the sides to pieces of wood on the front, back, and bottom

 

Replacement of Expansion Valve

1.       Open the evaporator box (remove screws) and remove the evaporator

2.       Remove the expansion valve

3.       Modify the 3/8" Brass 90-degree Compression fitting so it will fit
the tube that attached to the expansion valve you removed:

4.       Clamp the fitting in your bench vise and then, using progressively
larger drill bits in your electric drill, gradually enlarge the hole in the
compression end of the fitting until it is large enough to fit the
evaporator tube.

5.       Use a hacksaw to remove then non-threaded tapered end of the
compression fitting.

6.       Smooth the sawed end of the fitting with a belt sander.  It needs
to be smooth and flat for the tubing O-ring to seat against.

7.       Attach the modified fitting to the evaporator core

8.       Attach the 3/8" barb x 3/8" FIPS brass fitting to the other end of
the modified fitting.

9.       Rotate the 90 degree fitting so it is pointing toward the FRONT of
the evaporator coil (180 degrees from the exit hole)

10.   Attach a length of 3/8" vinyl tube to the barb fitting and loop it 270
degrees around the side of the evaporator coil so it is pointing the right
direction to exit the back of the evaporator box.

11.   Secure the hose to the side of the evaporator coil using some twist
ties attached to the 2 metal bands that used to hold the expansion valve
thermal sensor.

12.   Reinstall the evaporator into the evaporator box, being careful to
route the new vinyl hose out the back, and reinstalling the rubber grommet
around the new hose and existing tube.

13.   Trim the 3/8' vinyl tube to the approximate length of the existing
5/8"tube and then install the remaining 3/8" barbed connector

 

Wiring Harnesses

1.       Use 12g black wire and appropriate sized ring crimp terminal to
attach a ground wire to one of the 1/4" screws that secures the blower motor
to the blower housing, connect other end to negative 12v power source

2.       Use 12g red wire and crimp terminals to connect blower power
terminal to blower resistor block located in blower housing

3.       Use 12g red wire and crimp terminal to connect blower resistor to
positive 12V power source (I used cigarette lighter plugs, but if installed
in a car would use stock AC switch and power source.

4.       Likewise create a wiring harness to connect to cooler pump.

 

Hoses

1.       Attach 1/2" vinyl tubing to 2 drain ports on back of evaporator box
and connect with 1/2" 'T' connector; attach 3rd hose to other end of 'T' and
outside to drain

2.       Attach 5/8" vinyl tubing to cooler and to evaporator (length of
your choosing)

3.       Attach 3/8" vinyl tubing to cooler and to evaporator (length of
your choosing)

4.       Insulate 5/8" and 3/8" hoses with polyethylene pipe wrap insulation

 

Operation

1.       Fill cooler with cubed or small chunks of ice

2.       Add ice water to a depth of about 2")

3.       Close cooler lid

4.       Turn on pump and blower and enjoy cool, dry air!

 

Note: I actually built this and then ran it outside on a hot sunny day.  The
ice lasted about three hours.  The next step is to install the unit in a
Corvair, and then test it out.  I figure that even if I have to get new ice
every couple of hours it is still easier than installing a compressor,
condenser, dryer, hoses, etc, and if it doesn't work out I haven't really
spent much money or time anyway.

 

Photo album here: http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/580337059eTHqGs

 

Bill Hubbell

 

 



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