<VV> cht and oil temp question

Stephen Upham contactsmu at sbcglobal.net
Mon Aug 6 14:55:20 EDT 2012


Ron, I didn't write that clearly,  the bit was 1/8 in. diameter, but 12 inches long. 

Stephen


On Aug 6, 2012, at 1:46 PM, Ron wrote:

> How could you deflash the 1/8" openings which are the critical ones with a 1/2" bit?  It's the small openings way down that are clogged with flashing. I'd suggest that you look at it again.
> RonH
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen Upham" <contactsmu at sbcglobal.net>
> To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Sent: Monday, August 06, 2012 7:13 AM
> Subject: <VV> cht and oil temp question
> 
> 
>> I have a '65 Monza 110 PG that has about 10,000 on the last rebuild.  I deflashed the heads using a 12" drill bit.  It cleaned the passages very well and left tiny irregular groves to increase turbulence.  I got about a half a cup of flashing out of the heads.  Since it is a factory A/C, it has the 12 plate oil cooler.  I do not have the A/C compressor or condenser installed (money/time thing). When I got the cooler from a trusted west coast vendor, I was assured that it was completely flushed.  After I received it in the mail, I shook it ,and it sounded like a baby rattle.  I ran a magnet though the debris that came out of it, and found that it was indeed ferrous.  lI flushed that baby (the oil cooler) by filling it with paint thinner and setting it in a mop bucket and pouring hot water slowly into the bucket; a process not for the faint hearted. I did that about ten times.  I then flushed it out with a water hose, and finished the job by using compressed air to dry the pass
>> ages.  I have a Clark's deep/finned oil pan.  I have two oil temperature gauges (long story).  The sender for the first one in located in the area mentioned in the Tech Guide in the triangular area in the back right hand side of the block just above the lip of the oil pan.  That is attached to a water temp under dash gauge (not something I thought of - again, long story),  The second one is on the oil pan at the bottom back of the pan. The block location usually stays in the 220-260 range depending on load, ambient temps, and driving conditions.  The oil pan location varies between 160 and 190.  I really don't have an explanation for the difference in the spread at the higher temps, but my figures here are based on memory, so actual recording may prove there is a more 1 to 1 ratio.  I also have a Falcon dual CHT gauge.  I placed the senders around the base of spark plugs #'s 3 and 5.  The sender connection to the wire leading to the gauge in the cabin is located in the engi
>> ne compartment. The locations at the bases of the plugs don't provide the exact temps, but I am only looking for a variation from normal, and so they serve their intended purpose to show any unusual increase in temps. The normal temps on these are 220, and they usually remain the same, not varying more than 5 degrees one way or another though all driving conditions.  I use 30w Brad Penn oil; the "green oil".  I have been using it since break-in.  I live in Dallas, Texas and the average temps in the summer are at or above 100.  I get my highest readings when I am driving on the highway and then suddenly get stuck in stop and go traffic.  I usually remove the lower shrouds in early April and reinstall in late October.  I don't know the exact difference in temps by doing this as I have never taken the time to do a same day or similar day comparison, but I understand it can reduce running oil temps by 20-30 degrees.  Also, if you are rebuilding the engine, the piston to cylinde
>> r clearance is critical. If the clearance is even a minute fraction too tight, when the heating of the engine causes the pistons to expand, they reach the point where the extra drag causes the rod bearings to stress and fail.  Ask me how I know.
>> 
>> In my opinion having lost an engine to overheating, more gauges strategically placed monitoring different types of heat are better than fewer gauges or, heaven help you, just the "idiot" light.  In addition, making sure that all cooling passages, and coolers are clean and unobstructed, and that quality oil and proper air flow is maintained will make for a happy engine and happier owner.
>> 
>> Hope that helps,
>> 
>> Stephen Upham
>> NTCA / CORSA / Dallas,Texas
>> 
>> Message: 7
>> Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2012 16:46:49 -0700
>> From: Mark Durham <62vair at gmail.com>
>> Subject: <VV> cht and oil temp question
>> To: Virtual Vairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
>> Message-ID: <1991566529745791000 at unknownmsgid>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>> 
>> OK, all of you that have oil temp guages on their Corvair engines, could
>> you send me what your normal oil and cht temps are, warmed up? and if you
>> have done anything to the engine to help with oil temps, (larger oil
>> cooler, finned valve covers or finned/deep pan?) and what brand and weight
>> of oil.
>> 
>> I have not installed any guages yet and I am trying to educate myself/make
>> sense of the cSt figures on oils by comparing those viscosity ratings to
>> what temps we see "real world".. In our engines
>> Thanks in advance Mark Durham
>> 
>> Sent from my Windows Phone
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