<VV> Updates on oil fouled plugs

Daniel Monasterio dmonasterio at hotmail.com
Mon Jul 9 21:36:57 EDT 2012


I did all what you guys told me to check around those 3 cylinders (1,3 & 5) oil fouling plugs and, the results were:
No pits nor brown burned areas on cylinders' walls.Perfectly round cylinders showing uniform remains of cross hatching and coloration.Clearances between piston and cylinders like new.Clearances between rings and piston grooves perfect.Rings' gaps (in cylinders) very good.
Rings are cast iron ones with 3 pieces oil rings. Pistons are cast aluminum 0.060" OS with 0.070" milled tops (per Bob Helt's book) to use regular gas (excellent performing when not fouling plugs).What looks really weird (at least to me) is that the fouling is on the right bank only but, at recent emissions testing (with new plugs) both sides (dual exhaust) passed with similar readings.Something I didn't mention before was that oil fouling started after switching oil (at 4,000 miles) from dino to synthetic oil. At about 8,000 miles, switched back to 15-40 dino oil but, problem persisted.One more thing is that when fouling occur is at engine warning most of the time, sometimes while city driving but, never while on road driving. No smoke nor noticeable oil consuming on road driving.Have been using W8AC plugs with Pertronics I, Delco standard coil and 8 mm. wires. Plugs gapped to 0.040" on the beginning, then, after oil fouling, regapped to 0.035". Plan on changing to W10AC or similar hotter plugs when I can get them locally but, will restart with new W8AC as they come gapped (0.026") and see what happen on engine stand operation.
Anyways, I want to thank you all of you for your wise advise.
Daniel Monasterio

 		 	   		  


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