<VV> Loose top cover bolts
62vair at gmail.com
Sun Jun 24 14:31:49 EDT 2012
I'm with Frank on this one. No extra parts that could fall into the
I use the original gaskets with a thin film of high temp permatex and
the shake proof bolts. They don't hurt the top cover that bad at 7-13
ft lbs of torque! Mark Durham
Sent from my Windows Phone
From: Frank DuVal
Sent: 6/23/2012 12:19
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: Re: <VV> Loose top cover bolts
I've seen this done (trim baffle to fit inside) but never wanted to add
more nuts to fall off into the crank area.
It is faster to just put it back together like GM made it, even dealing
with the hard stuck on gaskets.
Of course it is even faster and cheaper to just use a gasket substitute
like "Right Stuff" or a Permatex product.
Isn't that what Smitty was saying?
Those two gaskets are so thin, they don't seem to shrink, just get hard
with time. The thickness of the valve cover gasket is waaayy more than
twice the combined thickness of these two gaskets. Properly installed
(another subject) valve cover gaskets seal a long time. And with only
"screws won't loosen": What? Maybe if you use Locktite or lockwashers...
and proper torque, yada yada yada
Like I was saying, I don't want to add hardware that can loosen to the
inside of the engine. At least on the outside it just leaks oil when the
On 6/23/2012 1:20 PM, Clark Hartzel wrote:
> I believe the bolts loosen up because they are clamping two gaskets
> together. If the tin baffle was mounted to either the block or the cover
> you would only need one gasket. I have cut the perimeter off the baffle and
> then bolted it under the top cover with four bolts. Yes you have to drill
> thru the cover but just glop some Permatex on the bolts and they never leak.
> In fact you could Permatex the joint between the cover and the block and
> eliminate the gasket completely. Now you have metal to metal contact and
> the screws won't loosen.
> Clark Hartzel
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