<VV> Hot starting advice

chuck mckinley cmckinley313 at verizon.net
Sun Mar 18 17:21:42 EDT 2012


If I try to start (with a hot engine) without touching the accelerator
at all, it will crank interminably without firing, acting very much like
when flooded. That's why I have to open it up all the way to clear it,
then it starts right away. Based on some other comments, I've just
ordered a set of gaskets and insulators from Clark's and will see
whether that helps.
My car starts without throttle help when cold,  but then I have to kick
it to set the fast idle cams. Cold starts have never been the slightest
problem. Reminds me of a VW in the old days (like, 1957-58.) I've got a
pair of VW carbs (mismatched, unfortunately) that I've been tempted to
try to adapt to the Corvair, but probably never will. One of them has a
throat that is probably about the right size but the other is too small.

Chuck

On Sun, 2012-03-18 at 14:05 -0700, Mark Durham wrote:
> Chuck, do you need to give the engine that throttle boost to start? My
> car starts without touching the gas pedal accept when cold. I solved my
> hot start problem by lowering the fuel level in the carb bowls a bit,
> then also figured out that the fuel pump was overpowering the needle
> and seat, filling up the bowls and overflowing into the intakes,
> causing the flooding and black smoke, so I added a fuel pressure
> regulator, and when adjusted it to give just enough fuel to go down the
> road, and pass another car, the hot starting disappeared. Mark Durham
> 
> Sent from my Windows Phone
> From: chuck mckinley
> Sent: 3/18/2012 9:38
> To: shortle
> Cc: virtualvairs at corvair.org; BobHelt at aol.com
> Subject: Re: <VV> Hot starting advice
> The car typically sits the order of 10-15 minutes (and stays hot.) I
> only have to crank the engine for one second or less, just a couple
> turns of the starter - as I say, it's really no big deal. It's just that
> it starts with a big load of gas from the accelerator pump, so it starts
> up with high rpm and makes me look like some kind of high-school Harry
> in the parking lot! The choke has definitely come off by the time this
> is happening. I guess I mis-stated the item about the unloader. I just
> put in new plugs (NGK) gapped to .035 per instructions. I do not have
> insulators under the carbs, just the thin gaskets that came with the
> rebuild kits. I had the thick insulators on the car prior to the carb
> rebuild, but they pretty much fell apart when I pulled the carbs, as
> they'd been there for about six years. I got the rebuild kits from a
> FLAPS, not Clark's, else I would have ordered the insulators. If they're
> considered crucial I'll get a pair.
> 
> Chuck
> 
> On Sun, 2012-03-18 at 10:20 -0600, shortle wrote:
> > Hi Chuck,
> > Of course Bob Helts book on identifying and rebuilding Corvair Rochester carbs is invaluable and has helped me a number of times.
> 
> > You failed to mention how long your car sits before this occurs and how long you have to crank the engine before it will start.
> 
> > (When you mention "unloader" it leads me to think your car is actually cooled off enough for the choke to be involved).
> 
> > Is your choke adjustment too stiff? Try disconnecting both choke rods after car warms up and see if this issue is still there?
> 
> > Do you have the insulators under the carbs?
> > Do you have the correct spark plugs with the proper gap? Just a few thoughts from cold and chilly SW Colorado.
> > Good luck and please post results and findings.
> > Timothy Shortle in Durango Colorado
> > PS You also maybe close to Corvair Master Technician Spence Shepherd if worse comes to worse
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > >From: BobHelt at aol.com
> > >Sent: Mar 18, 2012 10:02 AM
> > >To: cmckinley313 at verizon.net, virtualvairs at corvair.org
> > >Subject: Re: <VV> Hot starting advice
> > >
> > >chuck,
> > >It could be any number of causes. Most likely is that the carburetors
> > >floats are set too high allowing the fuel in the bowl to be too high. This can
> > >cause engine heat to percolate the fuel and run raw gas into the engine
> > >after  shut off.
> > >Another possibility is that you have carburetors that lack sufficient
> > >venting to disipate fuel fumes after a hot shut down. This is explained in  my
> > >book on H and HV carburetors. It wasn' t until 1964 that Chevrolet got the
> > >venting problem fixed. If that is your problem, then get a pair of 1964 or
> > >later carburetors for your engine.
> > >Regards,
> > >Bob Helt
> > >
> > >
> > >In a message dated 3/18/2012 7:36:52 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
> > >cmckinley313 at verizon.net writes:
> > >
> > >However,  when I drive somewhere far enough to get the engine warmed up
> > >and then park  (on grocery runs, etc.), I have to use the technique of
> > >flooring the  accelerator to engage the unloader to start it up again. It
> > >always starts  without hassle, so maybe there's no real issue, but I'm
> > >wondering if  there's any tweak that can be made to minimize  this
> > >pattern
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> 
> 
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