<VV> voltage regulator Answers

corvairduval at cox.net corvairduval at cox.net
Thu Apr 18 12:30:21 EDT 2013


For most generators, the field is connected internally to the A, armature,
terminal. This supplies +12 volts to the field for Corvair applications.
The F, field, terminal is the other lead of the field coils, and needs to
be grounded to put current through the field coils, thereby making a strong
magnetic field.

When the circuit has all the components installed, the battery is
connected, but the engine is off, the voltage regulator should be grounding
the F terminal. So to polarize the generator, which makes the field coils
have a weak magnetic field, one just needs to supply +12 to the A,
armature, terminal. The current should flow from (btw I'm using
conventional current flow, not electron flow for those purists that will
want to argue direction) the A terminal through the field coils to the F
terminal of the generator and then through the F terminal of the voltage
regulator to ground (and back to the battery - post). All one needs to do
is use a small jumper wire to connect the Battery terminal to the Armature
terminal at the voltage regulator to complete the circuit and make the
generator field coils get magnetic.

On the voltage regulator, the A terminal can also be marked Armature or
Generator. The B terminal can also be marked Battery. 

So I guess that is feeding the field, but that's not the actual connections
used!

Putting +12 on the F terminal of the voltage regulator will cause short
circuit current to flow through the points of the regulator, rendering it
inoperative. i.e. burned to a crisp contacts. Not even a file might help
those.

Frank DuVal

Original Message:
-----------------
From: shortle shortle556 at earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2013 09:22:33 -0600 (GMT-06:00)
To: corvairduval at cox.net, virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: Re: <VV> voltage regulator Answers


Hi Frank, It seems I remember the expression "feed the field" which I
thought meant giving a touch of battery voltage to the F lead at the
generator. This (sort of) put the generator and the regulator on the same
page? Please enlighten me on my older fading memory. BTW, today April 18 is
my older brothers 60th birthday. I never thought anyone could get to that
ripe old age!
Timothy Shortle in Durango Colorado 81301


-----Original Message-----
>From: Frank DuVal <corvairduval at cox.net>
>Sent: Apr 17, 2013 10:30 PM
>To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
>Subject: Re: <VV> voltage regulator Answers
>
>When you buy an NOS regulator, it may have been sitting for years. When 
>it was new, the contact points were shiny. Age may have dulled them. And 
>dull does not conduct well.
>
>The BEST method to clean the contacts is just white paper. NOT sandpaper 
>or a file. You do not want to destroy or reshape the contacts, just 
>remove the oxidation.
>
>Pull white paper through the contact points while holding them closed. 
>Not enough pressure to bend the arm, as this changes the settings. Some 
>points may have contacts that you need to hold up while sliding the 
>paper through them. If the paper turns black, you are cleaning. Continue 
>until the paper only turns slightly dark. If the regulator is installed 
>on the car, disconnect the battery. The white paper can be 20lb copy 
>paper, card stock, what ever you have handy. Just not paper with print 
>on it.
>
>Only if this fails to bring the regulator to life should one graduate to 
>harsher methods-point files and sandpaper.
>
>BTW, one does not "ground A to B", one touches a wire from A to B, no 
>connection to ground. Some regulators are marked Bat and Gen instead of 
>A and B (armature and battery). I know you did it right, I just wanted 
>to clarify for others reading the procedure. Also, this polarizes the 
>generator, not the regulator. The regulator does not hold a magnetic
charge.
>
>Frank DuVal
>

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