<VV> Interior dash & door panel painting

Carl Kelsen Arlette Pat arlettecarl at hotmail.com
Sun Aug 25 17:17:24 EDT 2013


Hi JR,
I have been through these issues with our Corvair restoration which like yours is a 1965 Monza convertible with a power top. I hope the following is of help?

Dash panel painting
With the single exception of white interiors (which had a black dash panel) all dash panels and safety pads were were colour keyed to match the interior colour. However the dash and padding colour was always slightly darker than the rest of the interior. For example a bright red interior would have a darker red (almost maroon) dash panel. This was true of all Chevrolet passenger vehicles and other GM makes for many years. If you can locate a sample section of a dash panel in the correct colour then this is the best way of ensuring the correct colour is used.

Exposed interior door metal painting
The exposed side interior metal was painted to match exactly the colour of the interior door trim (vinyl). It is meant to simulate interior trim. Failing to paint the  interior metal work in this way is in my opinion the single largest error made by many Corvair restorers. It's rare that exterior colour is used on the exposed interior metal of a passenger vehicle. The few exceptions would be some heavy duty trucks. So simply have your painter match the colour of the side interior trim for those exposed interior metal areas. Another issue is of course ensuring that interior and exterior colour finishes in the correct areas

Interior small 'Monza' emblems.
I have had limited success in removing these small emblems without breaking at least one of the small legs on the rear side of the emblem. I have tried many methods without much success. All I can say is take your time and if you can at least save one mounting leg then he emblem can be glued on to the replacement door panel. Perhaps others on this lst may have better advice.

Cleaning Interior chrome front seat side trim.
>From my experience these trims can be cleaned using soft soap filled fine steel wool pads and then follow with some good quality chrome polish. Depending on the condition of the chrome you may consider having the chrome redone.

Regards

Carl L. Kelsen
1965 RHD Corvair Monza convertible
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

> From: virtualvairs-request at corvair.org
> Subject: VirtualVairs Digest, Vol 103, Issue 53
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 12:00:02 -0400
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> Today's Topics:
> 
>    1. Corrected Trailer Winch Advice (BBRT)
>    2. Re: Seeking Trailer Winch Advice (RoboMan91324 at aol.com)
>    3. DACC Homecoming 2013 Awards Drive Thru (Matt Nall)
>    4. Air-Cooled at the Orchard in Middlefield CT  PICTURES! (Matt Nall)
>    5. Questions on door panels and Monza Emblems (J. R. Read)
>    6. Corvair Stash. (Paul Sergeant)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 11:55:37 -0400
> From: "BBRT" <chsadek at comcast.net>
> Subject: <VV> Corrected Trailer Winch Advice
> To: "Wade Lanning" <wblanning at comcast.net>,	<virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Message-ID: <F7F2848AA4234945ADC6ECCA6E6B625F at chucksadffb6d9>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="utf-8";
> 	reply-type=response
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "BBRT" <chsadek at comcast.net>
> 
> 
> > Hi Wade,
> >
> > Some have used HF, others as small as ATV winches..rolling cars don't take 
> > a lot.  I have a 4000lb Superwinch. Supposedly a very good winch. I could 
> > have gotten a remote instead of a cable with hand-held in and out 
> > switches.. A remote would be very nice...  Roller in front and guide for 
> > cable - most don't have it and mine has a roller, but doesn't have a 
> > moving vertical slot to wind cable evenly. You need at least as much cable 
> > as the trlr and ramps are long from winch mounting location.
> >
> > Are you going to pull a car out of the mud to put it on the trlr? At least 
> > a 4K lb winch.. Longer cable.
> > Now if you are dragging a flat-tired car or carcas up the trlr, then a big 
> > winch..
> > The more air in tires (to a point...) the easier to pull  (or push).
> > If your trlr ramps are the angle iron crossbars, tougher to pull a car up. 
> > Need more winch. Smooth ramps, then less winch.
> >
> > So, seldom used? Probably a HF would get by.
> > Big thing is to keep battery up..and that is a problem for most of us. A 
> > Battery Tender appears to be the way to go. Or maybe a solar Tender, of 
> > some sort. Winches get stolen, so a way to lock the mounting bolts..same 
> > with battery case.
> >
> > Chuck S
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Wade Lanning" <wblanning at comcast.net>
> > To: "Virtual Vairs" <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> > Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 10:41 AM
> > Subject: <VV> Seeking Trailer Winch Advice
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> I'd like to get advice on an electric winch for my car trailer. Such info 
> >> as w hat capacity and brand (store) would be appreciated.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Wade
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> This message was sent by the VirtualVairs mailing list, all copyrights 
> >> are the property
> >> of the writer, please attribute properly. For help, 
> >> mailto:vv-help at corvair.org
> >> This list sponsored by the Corvair Society of America, 
> >> http://www.corvair.org/
> >> Post messages to: VirtualVairs at corvair.org
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> >> _______________________________________________
> >>
> >> -----
> >> No virus found in this message.
> >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >> Version: 2013.0.3392 / Virus Database: 3211/6604 - Release Date: 08/24/13
> >>
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 18:10:05 -0400 (EDT)
> From: RoboMan91324 at aol.com
> Subject: Re: <VV> Seeking Trailer Winch Advice
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org, wblanning at comcast.net
> Message-ID: <3b38a.66dd7d18.3f4a893c at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> 
> Wade and all,
>  
> I have a 6000 lb Torin Big Red Jacks.  It came with  an adapter plate, 
> remote control, power cables and a hand crank for  backup, just in case.  It has 
> served me well over the past 25 years but  keep in mind that I rarely use 
> it so I can't testify if it would hold up with  constant use.  However, it 
> seems quite robust.  Keep in mind that the  quality or strength of the Torin 
> may have changed since I bought mine a quarter  of a century ago.
>  
> 6000 lbs is probably overkill but maybe not.  My last  trailering adventure 
> was a Rampside with three wheels locked from rust.   The Torin had the 
> power to pull the Rampside up the ramps onto the trailer with  the wheels 
> dragging.  If you know for a fact that you won't ever need to  drag a vehicle with 
> locked wheels or sunk into the dirt, you can get by with a  weaker winch.  
> I am a great believer in Murphy's Law.  You don't want  the vehicle half on 
> the trailer when the winch goes down.
>  
> Things to consider ...
>  
> The height of your trailer and the length of the ramps are a  
> consideration.  A shorter ramp means that it has a steeper incline.   This makes it 
> tougher on the winch.
>  
> When mounting the winch, make sure it is high enough that the  cable clears 
> the back of the trailer.  When the vehicle's wheels are  just starting on 
> the ramp is the point when the cable is lowest and might start  rubbing on 
> the back of the trailer.  However, the higher the winch is  mounted the 
> greater the stress on the bracket and receiver, if that is your  setup.  You may 
> want to mount the winch lower and put a roller on the back  of the trailer 
> that is wide enough so you can winch a vehicle up from a  reasonable angle to 
> your trailer.  The roller is the best  configuration.
>  
> The length of the power cables can be an issue.  The  Torin's cables do not 
> reach the battery in the front of my tow vehicle and I  need to use jumper 
> cables to add length.  I keep promising myself that I  will splice longer 
> cables onto it but never remember.  Yes, in 25  years.  The alternative is to 
> run battery power to the trailer plug  connector on your vehicle but this 
> will not help if you lend the trailer to  someone without this hook up.
>  
> It is unfortunate but an unattended winch will attract  thieves.  What I do 
> is remove the winch and mount and put it in the  vehicle.  This is not the 
> PITA that you might think.  The winch is  mounted to square tube welded in 
> an L configuration with a platform on  top.  The foot of the L slips into a 
> square receiver welded to the  trailer.  While winching, I do not need to fix 
> the bracket to the receiver  with bolts or a pin because the force on the 
> winch tends to pull the L down and  back which prevents the foot from 
> slipping out.  Once the force is removed,  the winch and bracket just slips out.  
> The bracket is about 10 Inches by 30  Inches.  Make sure the mount and 
> receiver is strong enough for your worst  case situation.  The force and the 
> resulting torque on the bracket and  receiver will be significant.  This is 
> especially the case as the height of  the L increases.  I would not weld the base 
> of the winch to the trailer or  bend over the mounting bolts because this 
> makes it as much a PITA for you as for  the thieves if you need to remove the 
> setup.  Also, removing the winch gets  it out of the weather.
>  
> Keep in mind that a free wheeling vehicle will want to roll  forward on 
> your trailer once the back wheels clear the ramp's hump if the  trailer is 
> tilted forward.  As the winched vehicle moves forward, the  trailer will rend to 
> tilt forward more and more.  This is especially the  case for a vehicle 
> with the motor in front.  Use something to chock the  wheels as you winch the 
> vehicle forward.
>  
> You may want to create a kit of wood blocks and ramp extenders  to take 
> with you.  The blocks can be used as chocks as mentioned above but  they can 
> also be used to extend the ramps to prevent damage to the winched  vehicle 
> against the ramps.  This damage can happen if the body of the  vehicle touches 
> the ramps before the front wheels do.  This is especially  the case with 
> shorter ramps, vehicles with flat tires, air dams or generally  lowered 
> vehicles.  My Corsa has an air dam and low profile tires.  I  have not trailered it 
> but I imagine it would have a problem.
>  
>  
> DO NOT use the winch as the front support for the vehicle  while towing.  
> Use straps and/or chains that are designed for this  purpose.
>  
> 
> Doc
> 1960 Corvette, 1961 Rampside, 1962 Rampside, 1964  Spyder coupe, 1965 
> Greenbrier, 1966 Canadian Corsa turbo coupe, 1967 Nova SS,  1968 Camaro ragtop
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>  
> In a message dated 8/24/2013 9:00:09 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
> virtualvairs-request at corvair.org writes:
> 
> Message:  6
> Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 14:41:45 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Wade Lanning  <wblanning at comcast.net>
> Subject: <VV> Seeking Trailer Winch  Advice
> To: Virtual Vairs   <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Message-ID:
> <809295207.1343059.1377355305777.JavaMail.root at sz0204a.westchester.pa.mail.c
> omcast.net>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to  get advice on an electric winch for my car trailer.? Such info 
> as w hat  capacity and brand (store) would be appreciated. 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,  
> 
> Wade  
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 23:15:22 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Matt Nall <patiomatt at aol.com>
> Subject: <VV> DACC Homecoming 2013 Awards Drive Thru
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Message-ID: <8D06F5877D85F09-B90-9BCF at webmail-d291.sysops.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> http://youtu.be/h_J4hsCL5B8
> 
> 
> Matt Nall
> Charleston, Oregon
> http://tinyurl.com/The-Corvair-Patio
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/Matts-Tech-Pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 23:18:31 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Matt Nall <patiomatt at aol.com>
> Subject: <VV> Air-Cooled at the Orchard in Middlefield CT  PICTURES!
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Message-ID: <8D06F58E8EEA14B-B90-9BF4 at webmail-d291.sysops.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/Orchard-Show
> 
> 
> Matt Nall
> Charleston, Oregon
> http://tinyurl.com/The-Corvair-Patio
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/Matts-Tech-Pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 21:20:17 -0700 (PDT)
> From: "J. R. Read" <hmlinc at sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: <VV> Questions on door panels and Monza Emblems
> To: Virtual Vairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Message-ID:
> 	<1377404417.43344.YahooMailNeo at web185001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> 
> The car is a '65 Monza Convert with power top.? Supposed to be Cameo Biege exterior, but is about 3 shades more yellow than it should be.? Does not matter for the questions I wish to ask.
> 
> The interior is Saddle Tan.? I'm replacing the 2 door panels, the small (1/4?) rear seat area flat (window crank area) interior panels, the?rear arm rest (ash tray area) panels and the panels above those which wrap around with a metal backing to behind the upright portion of the rear seat.
> 
> I also wish to?refresh the paint on the doors (etc) which surrounds the flat panels as well as (possibly) the center prtion of the dash.? Since the painting will?need to be done before the upholstery is installed, my first questions relate to that.
> 
> Currently, the interior door paint is a bit gold in color and I suspect that it is a factory color.? The dash and speaker/defroster area are more of a coaco brownish color and I'm not sure if that is original - although it seems to match the padded dash.
> 
> Paint Questions:
> 
> Can anyone tell me?if the dash (radio area and speaker area) are supposed to match the metal interior door panel surround area?
> 
> If they are supposed to match, what is the correct color (colors?) which go with a saddle tan interior?? I need to let my body guy know ASAP on the answers to these questions, so any quick help would be greatly appreciated on this part.
> 
> The other questions have to do with the interior parts.
> 
> I know that I have to transfer the bright (aluminum? or chromed steel?) strips?from the old upholstery (it's a '65) to the new upholstery.? While they are off, I'd like to do a clean/polish job on those items.? Does anyone know what would be the best (damage free) cleaner and/or polisher to use on these parts?
> 
> There are also door Monza Emblems which must be moved over.? I've not yet done an evaluation of the existing ones, but I'm wondering who may have used reproduction emblems in the past and how well they held up.? Keep in mind that I typically put over 3,000 pr year on this car and it is not uncommon to hit the 10,000 mark.? Also, since it is a vert, the possibility also exists the door emblems could (unintentionally) get wet.
> 
> The metal wrap around pieces which go from the top of the rear side panels to the top of the rear seat and get fabric glued to them seem to have screws pushing the fabic away from the steel on the outside which would not be seen?without looking down into the area where the top folds.? I've not taken this fabric off yet, but wonder if those (seemingly the sharp end of sheet metal screws) are even needed on a power top car?? I'm guessing that they are there to hold the upright pieces for holding a manual top in the down position.?????
> 
> I know that there are other questions (minor ones).? I'll hold off on those for a bit.
> 
> Any/All help would be greatly appreciated on the items above.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Later, JR
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 10:12:13 -0500
> From: "Paul Sergeant" <paulsgt at earthlink.net>
> Subject: <VV> Corvair Stash.
> To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Message-ID: <7393BE69E0F14EE09006E7EE0E3051ED at PaulsVAIO>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="utf-8";
> 	reply-type=original
> 
> Thanks for posting this Bruce.
> 
> ...hoping to add a little emphasis to this opportunity...
> I have spoken to Bruce about this collection and seen some limited photos. 
> There are some BARGAINS there to be had.  Like Bruce told me,  if you are 
> anywhere near SD and have cash and a trailer, you will get a good deal.  I 
> believe there to be more than 100 Corvair cars/trucks/etc...  These were 
> stored inside from what we can tell.  Bruce has seen the collection.  I 
> expect there is some rare stuff in there.
> 
> Sounds like they won't be around for a long time as the property needs where 
> they are located needs to be sold.
> 
> Happy hunting.
> 
> Paul Sergeant
> Jefferson City, MO
> Central Division Director / President ? CORSA
> 65 Monza Convertible (110/PG)
> 66 Corsa Coupe (140/4 ? 28,000 orig. miles)
> 61 Pontiac Tempest Safari Wagon
> 
> CORSA Since 1975
> Member ? HACOA, Corvair Minnesota, CORSA, POCI, Little Indians.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2013 14:35:27 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Bruce Alexander <brucealexander11 at yahoo.com>
> Subject: <VV> Corvair Stash
> To: "virtualvairs at corvair.org" <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Message-ID:
> <1377293727.93450.YahooMailNeo at web120803.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> 
> There are about 100 Corvairs for sale,RIGHT NOW,in South Dakota. They are 
> located near Mitchell, but are listed on craigs list to be in Trent, SD.?? 
> http://siouxfalls.craigslist.org/cto/3993250289.html
> There are cars, vans, rampsides, early and late cars, early spyders.
> 
> 
> ?
> ...,Bruce Alexander
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> VirtualVairs at corvair.org
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