<VV> water injection advice needed
FrankCB at aol.com
FrankCB at aol.com
Wed Feb 20 22:29:36 EST 2013
Ray, Mark, and Kevin,
Well, what you need for a water injected, NON-boosted engine is a way
of injecting the water with the flow INVERSELY proportional to the intake
manifold vacuum. That means, little or NO water flow at HIGH vacuum (like
idle or cruising or decelerating down a hill) and HIGH water flow at LOW
vacuum (like heavy acceleration especially at low rpm). So using the manifold
vacuum to simply SUCK in the water through an orifice is BACKWARD from
what you really need and will not work properly.
The Snow Performance unit mentioned previously uses this type of
vacuum controller you need that injects LESS at high vacuum and MORE water at
It also uses a rpm controller to start the injection ABOVE a certain rpm.
Just be careful to use smaller nozzles since you will be using 2 of them
in PARALLEL with one in each primary carb on the 140.
Many years ago I was driving a well worn 110 engine that pinged
substantially whenever I accelerated. Not wanting to retard the spark timing, I
built my own "cheapie" water injection setup that used a surplus aircraft
type 12 volt pump and 2 plastic nozzles that I removed from a couple of
soon-to-be discarded kitchen cleaner spray bottles. I positioned the nozzles
to spray downward into the tops of the 2 carbs and used windshield washer
fluid as my fluid. But I had no way of varying the flow - it was either on
or off. I was the "sophisticated controller" that "knew" when the car was
about to accelerate and simply reached forward to push the button that
activated the pump. If I remembered to push the button the engine accelerated
quietly. If I forgot, I heard the noise of a dozen rattling empty bottles
behind me to remind me of my error. I was planning on adding a vacuum
switch to activate the pump but the car developed much more serious problems
that led to its demise.
Clark's Corvair Parts used to sell a Carter "Engine Knock Eliminator"
that used a knock sensor that screwed into the top of the Corvair engine
and "heard" the knock/ping and sent a signal to the control box that retarded
the ignition timing to ALL cylinders until the knock went away. I think
it was under the $300 you mentioned but that was many years ago and I don't
know if Clark still offers it. Maybe eBay might be worth a look.
The Ray Sedman unit that Mark mentions is called the "SafeGuard" and
is much more sophisticated in that it retards ONLY the cylinder(s) that are
doing the knocking/pinging. Also it has an optional dashboard mounted
indicator that shows when and just how much retard is being supplied. This
unit would be ideal to use in setting up the water injection controls so that
only enough water is injected at any moment to eliminate practically all
the knock so that the SafeGuard has only a very slight amount of retard to
do. But it is rather pricey. You can check it out at:
Let us know what you decide to do and how it works out, Ray.
Frank "aquaman" Burkhard
In a message dated 2/18/2013 10:58:58 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
62vair at gmail.com writes:
Ray, I would suspect the coil over the pertronix. I finally quit using a
flame thrower and went back to a std 12 volt coil. I noticed no difference
Also, what heat range plug are you running? I would suggest the coldest
range, that can itself lower cylinder temps by 60 degrees.
Ray Sedman sells a unit like you described on www.american-pi.com, but its
Clarks's did have a water system, got in a bunch of units, but I think they
went fast. Maybe someone has a spare around. All it was was a bottle for
the liquid with a orofice which allowed so much fluid through, pulled in by
manifold pressure (vacuum).
On Sun, Feb 17, 2013 at 8:04 PM, Ramon Rodriguez III
<corvairgrymm at gmail.com
> Apparently Clark's no longer sells a kit for water injection. I'm pretty
> sure I looked at one in their catalog a year or two ago but I could be
> remembering wrong.
> Either way I want a nice clean water injection installation on my 140.
> anyone either point me to a good kit or to thorough instructions on what
> buy and how to put it together myself?
> Somewhat related, is their any way to put a knock eliminator on this
> for under say $300 or so? I know the unit Clark's used to sell has been
> unavailable for some time and wasn't cheap. I currently have a Pertronix
> II and flamethrower coil on this engine but I think the module is acting
> (an intermittent miss started on the way to Sturbridge). I haven't
> verified that is the cause yet but it is my prime suspect.
> I'm willing to spend more on this than I was in the past, but my budget
> still very limited.
> Thank you for any advice,
> Ray Rodriguez III
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