<VV> Turning torque while waiting for flywheel bolts

[MarK Durham]

Charlie, you are over thinking it. My engine was so tight with fresh
barrels and chrome rings and new tight bearings with it pre oiled and rings
pistons and cylinder bores coated with stp/oil it took effort to get it to
turn. It still sounded dry out the spark plug holes.
Yet, when the starter engaged it turned right over and ran . Granted I had
to keep a bit of throttle in it for a few seconds but then I ran it 3
minutes at 1200 to 1400 rpm and shut it off to cool. Checked for leaks, it
ran pretty good the second three minutes at 1200 to 1400 rpms. Third run I
let it idle down and set timing and mixture, then drove it for about 20
minutes, rechecked idle and mixture, then drove it to 500 miles and changed
the oil. Then I started to use higher rpm ranges.
Mark Durham Hauser Idaho
62 2Door Coupe 4speed Red/Red
On May 31, 2014 9:25 AM, "Charlie via VirtualVairs" <
virtualvairs at corvair.org> wrote:

> The big question is "If it turns over easily" since I figured that I
> couldn't tell just how hard that the starter would be working to "grind" it
> past anything that might be rusted or overly tight, etc.
>
> Hence, the torque measurement would be my "metric" on how hard the engine
> would be to turn = how much resistance against which the starter would be
> fighting?
>
> Probably over-thinking, but I could "torque" it while I'm waiting for the
> flywheel bolts (that I need to attach the flywheel and ring gear to even
> attach the starter) without which I can't do that step?
>
> So there is a method to my madness, although over-thinking is a problem~
>
> Charlie
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: VirtualVairs [mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of
> Smitty via VirtualVairs
> Sent: Friday, May 30, 2014 1:01 PM
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Subject: <VV> Turning torque
>
> Smitty Says;  Charlie don't worry about how much torque it wiil take to
> turn
> it.  Put the starter on it and let the starter worry about if it can do the
> job or not.  Dump a 1/2 oz of oil in the plug holes and leave the plugs out
> while you crank the hell out of it.  If it turns over easily it is a good
> bet to be a viable engine.  If not then all bets are off.  You should have
> oil pressure in about 20 seconds and that will do as much good as screwing
> around with the pump.  The engine will have no  combustion pressures while
> doing the cranking so chances of wiping a bearing are almost non existent.
> Give er hell buddy and get on with the program.
> I have started any number of engines that blew rusty water out of the plug
> holes when they were cranked and then squalled like a pig when they
> started.
>
> If they do that they were a loser to begin with so you haven't lost a
> thing.
>
> You seem to be in a real time crunch so put the keyboard away and pick up
> the wrench.      Said with nothing but the best intentions.  Anyone who
> disagrees with me is wrong, so don't bother to argue.   GGGG
>
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