<VV> Pinging

corvairduval at cox.net corvairduval at cox.net
Wed Mar 19 18:12:55 EDT 2014


I also echo these replys. I use the 1/2 turn from when the push rod stops
turning with fingers to set cold adjustment. Then if it seems wrong after a
run in, I do a hot running adjustment like Mark wrote.

What's this 1/3 valve cover idea? If I did that, I wouldn't get the hot oil
treatments for my arms! GGGGG!

Frank DuVal

Original email:
-----------------
From: Vairtec Corporation vairtec at comcast.net
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2014 14:04:27 -0400
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: Re: <VV> Pinging


Brian, you may recall that we could not even get the engine you built 
for my car to START until we backed off the valve adjustment, at which 
point it fired and a subsequent running adjustment worked fine.  I'm no 
engine guy by any stretch, but I strongly endorse what Mark has written 
here because running adjustments in exactly the procedure he describes 
have solved more than one "engine problem" for me over the years.  --Bob


On 3/19/2014 12:57 PM, MarK Durham wrote:
> Brian, all I know is that when I rebuilt my 110, the engine did not run
> real smooth nor did it sound 100% right until I adjusted the lifters to no
> more than 1/4 turn in. I had them set at 1/2 turn (cold on the bench
> adjustment) for the first 4000 miles, and I finally did a running valve
> adjustment to likewise find a source for some unusual noise and the fact
> that the engine would not idle down and adjust to spec.
>
> I had put a Isky 270 cam in it and thought the "not want to idle down "
> scenario was caused by the cam, but after the valve adjustment I was able
> to set the carbs up to spec, plus the engine smoothed out and sounded
> better, even though it lopes a little bit. Its like the engine was too
> tight before with the lifter bodies adjusted at 1/2 turn.
>
> Its my understanding that new style lifters are supposedly centered at 1/2
> turn in, so going one full turn may be too deep and if that is the case
for
> your lifter style, that might be where the noise is coming from, too. I
> know the book says 1 full turn, but that is for parts produced back in the
> 60's when the cars were new and the lifters were produced to a different
> spec.
>
> So my advice is to do a running adjustment  using the 1/3 valve covers to
> keep the oil in; first adjust out to zero lash so the tapping just goes
> away *on all of them*, and see how it runs, then *adjust in 1/8 turn
> on all*while running, and see how it runs, then *go
> to 1/4 turn if you want*, and see how it runs.  There is no need to go any
> further in, the lifters are in their operating range at 1/8 turn and as
> long as everything stays properly lubricated, the system should stay quiet
> for years to come.
>
> My "sweet Spot" was 1/8 turn in, so that is where I left them. When I went
> to 1/4 turn, the engine slowed down and made some sounds I didn't like,
> like something was binding a bit. But, it does not do this at 1/8 turn in.
>
> When you get to that point, the engine will probably be smoother and
> quieter.  Then  you can see if that helped what you think is pinging.
>
> Just my thoughts.
>   Mark Durham
> Hauser, Idaho
> 62 Monza coupe Red/Red 4 speed
> modified 64 - 110
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 19, 2014 at 9:10 AM, Brian <bmoneill at juno.com> wrote:
>
>> Is there any connection between valve settings--currently one ful turn
>> down--and pinging?  A snewly built 140 has both an untraceable valve
train
>> noise and intermittent pinging.  Everything is stock to include NOS 304
GM
>> cam.
>>

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