<VV> No start help...

[Dennis Pleau]

The black wire from the points to the coil often fail.  The copper wire
inside the insulation break, while the insulation still look good You can
only flex a piece of copper so many times until it breaks and the vacuum
advance is moving the whole time you're driving.  Franks testing will show
where the problem is, but I would test # 2 first and wiggle the wire around
while you're are testing it.

dp

-----Original Message-----
From: VirtualVairs [mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of
corvairduval--- via VirtualVairs
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 3:47 PM
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: Re: <VV> No start help...

Your points are not closing. OK, they may be closing, but, they are not
completing the circuit for some reason. Check:

1. Resistance of point plate to actual ground, say battery - post.

2. Resistance of wire (typically black) connecting - terminal of coil to
points.

3. Resistance of the points, from the wire terminal (screw, nut, clip) to
the screw that holds them in place. 

These should be near zero ohms, not an open circuit.

I agree with your explanation of coil problems.

Your tests prove the coil is good so far.


Frank DuVal



Original email:
-----------------
From:  GoVairs at aol.com
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2014 15:55:29 -0400
To: corvairduval at cox.net
Subject: Re: <VV> No start help...


Thanks for your time. After testing, here the results:
 
Points open - 12 volts on - terminal of coil Points open - 12 volts on +
terminal of coil Points closed - 12 volts on - terminal of coil Points
closed - 12 volts on + terminal of coil What do you think?
 
I hear you about coils. I just think it is that most people don't know how
they work.
 
WTS
 
 
In a message dated 10/22/2014 6:00:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
virtualvairs at corvair.org writes:

Yes, the  test is something like those numbers. Do NOT get wrapped around
exact  numbers for ohms, just something like this.

But, I can tell from your  volt readings that the coil is NOT the problem.

When the points are  closed, there should be 0 volts on the negative
terminal of the coil. Make  this happen then get back to us.

That's:

Points open,  12  volts on - terminal of coil.
Points open,  12 volts on + terminal of  coil.
Points closed, 0 volts on - terminal of coil.
points closed, ~5 to  10 volts on + terminal of coil.

Why people swap three coils I don't  get. Swap one and you are done, look
elsewhere for a problem. Especially if  you take a working coil off another
car. I always do that, as I keep NO new  coils around, just used coils, road
tested for years.

Frank  DuVal

Original email:
-----------------
From: GoVairs--- via  VirtualVairs virtualvairs at corvair.org
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2014 10:47:54  -0400
To: VirtualVairs at corvair.org
Subject: <VV> No start  help...


One of our club members has a '64 that he can't get  started. It has sat
around his place for a few years but he always  started it and let it run a
bit.  This last time it has sat for about  2 years and it will not start. 
We
have fuel  but no spark. He has  replaced the cap, rotor, points and coil.
The
coil had  12 volts  to the positive side. The negative wire has 12 volts at 
 
the points.  I believe it is the coil. He tells me this morning that  this
is third new coil he has swapped while testing. Is there any bench  test
for coils? He mentioned he read somewhere that there should be .75 to  .81
of resistance between the positive negative terminals and 10k to  11k
between either the positive or negative terminal and the coil  output post.
I know -

coils! Thanks for the
help. 

WTS