<VV> Anti-seize usage on wheel studs

[Frank DuVal]

I realize you have more years of experience with this subject, but as a 
former shop owner:

Do you live in the rusty east? I do and I use anti-seize, grease, oil, 
whatever is handy. I have swapped thoudsands of wheels and the only one 
that came off was the one I NEVER tightened. That was an expensive 
lesson. Shop rules changed at that time to a more standard operation 
procedure for wheels including proper torquing and lubrication. I know 
several shop owners in this area with similar results using lubrication. 
Of course, anti-seize does change the torque values needed to clamp the 
wheel correctly. One can use anti-seize incorrectly and that's when the 
lawyers get involved.

Nothing beats being on the road with a flat tire and not being able to 
remove it with the factory lug wrench, either from over tightening or rust.

I only worked on cars, not large trucks. I see research was done for the 
large truck industry, including Budd or stud centered wheels, and dual 
wheels. These wheels NEED oil on their threads for the torque values to 
be correct. Anti-seize, while changing the torque required by the same 
percentage as on any fastener, since the value on truck wheels is so 
large, the difference is enough to cause overtorquing if values are not 
adjusted. And the results can be what you predicted, including lawyers 
again, after a loose wheel causes mayhem. I see your point on large 
truck wheels. Did your research find wheel offs from cars in the 100 
ft-lb or less torque value category?

YMMV

Frank DuVal


On 2/10/2015 6:22 PM, J Bruce Weeks via VirtualVairs wrote:
> DO NOT USE ANTI-SEIZE ON WHEEL STUDS! Two drops of motor oil only, and only on the threads.
>
> I was a wheel engineer for 18 years and many wheel separations occurred because of anti-seize.
>
> It was one of the main reasons uncovered in a NHSTA investigation I was involved in concerning wheel-offs.
>
> Bruce Weeks