[FC] Rear end noise

[David Ziegler, III]

There is a special tip for your grease gun made specially for greasing 
U-joints, I believe it is called a needle tip but I think that is somewhat 
of a misnomer, it's more of a small tip in my way of thinking.
All new U-joints should be taken apart and the light vaseline like grease 
removed and the needle bearings cleaned, they should then be well lubed with 
a good lithium based grease and installed in the car. I like to then give 
them a good shot with the grease gun (with special tip) just to make sure 
the grease is  every where it is needed without danger of blowing off the 
caps.

Dave Ziegler
CORVAIR THERAPY
mechanical repair, light restoration




>From: "Charles M. Wrobel" <r75@shaw.ca>
>Reply-To: corvanatics@corvair.org
>To: corvanatics@corvair.org
>Subject: Re: [FC] Rear end noise
>Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 09:28:10 -0700
>
>Dave -
>
>They were brand new u-joints and now I can't remember
>exactly when they were installed. It could have been
>about two or three years ago when the rear wheel
>bearings went in. I'm sure everything was done properly
>and the nipple just worked it's way out over time. What
>I have learned from this is that it is almost impossible
>to get access to that nipple for a greasing and, from
>now on I will locktite those nipples.
>
>Also, what I should have done as far as approaching this
>problem as it arose was to spray a good deal of wd-40
>into the joint and allow it to penetrate all of the
>rusty areas and help remove the fluffy rust, and then
>find a way to get the grease in under pressure. What I
>did do was spray white lithium grease in there and block
>off a chance to get wd-40 into the tiny recesses. And,
>the white lithium grease I had on hand was of a kind
>that solidifies/ or gels up almost immediately. A
>previous brand I had used acted very much like a
>penetrating oil and ten minutes later it stiffened up to
>a nice heavy/sticky grease. That would have worked well
>for this application.
>
>- Charles
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