[FC] Floor repair

[James Davis]

I will second that.  While not having replaced the entire floor, I have had 
to replace both front fenders and rockers in to the floor and back to the 
rear of the door opening.  There must be 100 or more spot welds in three 
layers of metal (20 and 18 ga).  I did mine in fiberglass so as not to have 
to do it again.  The front floor was rusty but whole so it got POR-15 and 
fiberglass.  I figure about 50 hours from start to finish including 
paint.  Once you get the front sealed you can use a scrub brush and water 
hose to clean the mud out of the cab with no fear of rust. Rampus is a 
daily driver with 176,000 mostly trouble free miles, so far.
Jim Davis


At 02:48 PM 7/27/2004, you wrote:
>Mike,
>
>It's a pretty fair job. As Bill said, I am replacing the front floor - the 
>entire lower floor, most of the sloped floor at the front, and a portion 
>of the driver's wheel well. So far I have the floor cut out, the new floor 
>cut out of the donor (blasted and painted), and the wheel well repaired. 
>It has been a much larger job than I anticipated! Especially around the 
>brace for the steering column, which does not come out. Since mine is a 
>ground up restoration, I haven't put the new floor in yet since I want to 
>finish the frame rails and sheetmetal that is now exposed. It can be done, 
>but it's not a weekend job! Good Luck!
>
>Garry Parsley
>1965 Greenbrier
>1962 Corvan
>
>-------------- Original message from "Michael Clark" : --------------
> > Good Morning group.
> >
> > How hard is it to patch/replace the floor inside the cab of a Rampside?
> >
> > My truck has a bad floor, not only where your feet go, but under and 
> behind
> > the seat as well. The rest of the cab seems solid.
> >
> > And speaking of floors, the floor in the bed is pretty much rusted 
> away, but
> > the truck doesn't flex. I suppose I could cut out what's left and weld in
> > new metal. Anyone ever done this?
> >
> >
> > Mike Clark
> > 61 Rampside
> > Stockbridge, Georgia
> > _____________________