[FC] Car drivetrain in a FC

[Ken Hand]

????? HMMMM, there are many answers to your slippery question. When you are stuck or starting out on slippery stuff, the more wheels you have driving the better to get going. But, if you are moving on a slippery surface I prefer an NON posi. Reason being is that with the posi it is more likely to induce a slide or a spin because you will lose traction on both rear wheels when they spin, not just one. It has been pointed out many times that in a Corvair, you really don't need a posi except for a very few times on the street. As you well know what has been said above is no better than the driver trying to use it. You still need a judicial right foot on the accelerator pedal.

?? As far as the lead additive, you really don't need it for the engine, unless you feel that the performance is better with it. The Corvair engine will run it's full life on no lead with no ill effects. If you pay attention to the fuel line routing and/or put an electric fuel pump in you will have little or no vapor lock problems. That being said, I had a van that I did everything that I could think of and read about to get it to stop vapor locking. The only cure was a full time electric fuel pump up front. Also I have had several FC's that didn't need anything special for fuel delivery.


 


Ken Hand
248-613-8586
www.corvairmechanic.com

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: David Houston <judgehouston at yahoo.com>
To: corvanatics at corvair.org
Sent: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 2:00 pm
Subject: [FC] Car drivetrain in a FC










I own a 1961 Greenbrier with a '63 motor and PG. My axle is a 3.55 w/o posi. 
What is my disadvantage, if any, if I become stuck in snow, sliding on ice, 
etc... Does just one wheel drive the vehicle at all times? Or can the drive 
wheel switch back and forth? I was told that in posi axles both rear wheels 
drive the vehicle all the time. Is this so?? The reason is that my drive wheel 
was switching back and forth going up a slick hill.
Also, I use a tetra-ethyl lead additive called 'Max-lead 2000' out of Indiana. 
My motor responds much better, especially going up the numerous hills in Maine. 
I know many owners say its not needed but we just went to 10% ethanol and many 
older car owners are having fuel problems like vapor lock and constant pinging 
even with the timing retarded.
I also have a modified road draft tube that works very well. The previous owner 
grafted it onto the '63 motor.? He always used Hi-test gas and I've continued 
with good results after I rebuilt both my carbs. Lastly my fuel gauge only rises 
a little above E. Is this a bad ground?? The previous owners really cut up the 
wiring for his stereo, which I pulled out.


      
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