[FC] metal work

[Andrew Sego]

If your plan is to solder the butted seams forget about it.  Lead on a thin outside edge won't last before it cracks loose.  Proper welding, or brazing is what you need.  However, if you can build it with lapped seams you could solder it.  Try to make your patterns have as many bends and as few seams as possible.  When you are done with fabricating your tank take it to a radiator shop to pressure test it.  Or you can seal it and immerse it under water.  Bubbles equal leaks. The eastwood would have the body solder you are referring to though.  You'll also need flux, paddle and tallow.
 
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1681&itemType=PRODUCT
 
If you are unsure about your welding skills, pattern the tank, cut all the pieces, tack them together and then take them to a good welding shop to get fully welded.  It WILL be cheaper than buying all those body solder supplies.
 
Andrew
 
Good luck.

--- On Tue, 7/8/08, wern3 at juno.com <wern3 at juno.com> wrote:

From: wern3 at juno.com <wern3 at juno.com>
Subject: [FC] metal work
To: corvanatics at corvair.org
Date: Tuesday, July 8, 2008, 4:43 PM

I am assembling a new gas tank from sheet metal to replace the old tank that
failed last weekend on my '61 Rampy after I tried to repair it with
fiberglass. The plan is to assemllbe it with spot welds, then seal the seams
with lead solder or braze it tight. I once saw (in the late 70's) a crew
assembling Impalas at the old Janesville assy. plant. They were using a gas
torch and what looked like soft lead sticks smoothed witha spatula to fill body
gaps where the roof panel joined the "C" pillar. My experiments with
plumbers solder and flux I use for sweating copper water pipes have been a
failure on sheet metal, Anyone on here know what combination of flux and solder
that man was using on sheet metal??
Thanks
Tim '61 Rampy
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