[FC] metal work

[Ken Hand]

??? The sweating that you are refering to for copper pipes probably will not work with your sheetmetal unless you form a "J" lock of some sort, very dificult to do. The process that you see for the car is probably at the top seam and there is some pretty thick metal right there and it can get pretty warm without warping. Also what they are doing is heating the lead, not solder, to a cooler temp that is just barely in the plastic stage and then sort of smearing it into and onto the area that needs to be smoothed. This is just a rough verbal sketch of the process, but I think you get the idea.

??? Now, I think there are plans and/or pics on the Corvanatic web site of a SS gas tank.


Ken Hand
248-613-8586
www.corvairmechanic.com 


-----Original Message-----
From: wern3 at juno.com <wern3 at juno.com>
To: corvanatics at corvair.org
Sent: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 4:43 pm
Subject: [FC] metal work



I am assembling a new gas tank from sheet metal to replace the old tank that 
failed last weekend on my '61 Rampy after I tried to repair it with fiberglass. 
The plan is to assemllbe it with spot welds, then seal the seams with lead 
solder or braze it tight. I once saw (in the late 70's) a crew assembling 
Impalas at the old Janesville assy. plant. They were using a gas torch and what 
looked like soft lead sticks smoothed witha spatula to fill body gaps where the 
roof panel joined the "C" pillar. My experiments with plumbers solder and flux I 
use for sweating copper water pipes have been a failure on sheet metal, Anyone 
on here know what combination of flux and solder that man was using on sheet 
metal??
Thanks
Tim '61 Rampy
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