[FC] metal work

[noahsarkinc]

The process is to rough up the base metal with a grinder, and then heat and 
"tin" with acid core 50/50 solder.  Then you wipe a dry cloth across the 
molten solder to give the entire surface a tinned bonding surface.  After 
that you use body solder, 30%tin 70% lead, and heat and paddle it with a 
maple paddle and bees wax to spread it.  You have to get the body solder 
just warm enough to work, but not so hot that it runs.  It takes a long 
time to learn the proper technique, and if you don't do it all the  time, 
you will never become proficient at doing a lead job.  This is where the 
original term "lead sled" comes from.  The old body men were very good at 
applying body solder, and then they would sculp it with a body file.  The 
factory used a hot spray method of applying body solder to seams, and then 
it was worked by the people on the line to get the proper contours.  Today, 
it is all but a lost art for the most part.  I learned how to do it in 1962, 
and by 1964, Bondo was taking over for doing lead jobs.   Paul in CT
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ken Hand" <vairmech at aol.com>
To: <corvanatics at corvair.org>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 7:52 PM
Subject: Re: [FC] metal work


> ??? The sweating that you are refering to for copper pipes probably will 
> not work with your sheetmetal unless you form a "J" lock of some sort, 
> very dificult to do. The process that you see for the car is probably at 
> the top seam and there is some pretty thick metal right there and it can 
> get pretty warm without warping. Also what they are doing is heating the 
> lead, not solder, to a cooler temp that is just barely in the plastic 
> stage and then sort of smearing it into and onto the area that needs to be 
> smoothed. This is just a rough verbal sketch of the process, but I think 
> you get the idea.
>
> ??? Now, I think there are plans and/or pics on the Corvanatic web site of 
> a SS gas tank.
>
>
> Ken Hand
> 248-613-8586
> www.corvairmechanic.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: wern3 at juno.com <wern3 at juno.com>
> To: corvanatics at corvair.org
> Sent: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 4:43 pm
> Subject: [FC] metal work
>
>
>
> I am assembling a new gas tank from sheet metal to replace the old tank 
> that
> failed last weekend on my '61 Rampy after I tried to repair it with 
> fiberglass.
> The plan is to assemllbe it with spot welds, then seal the seams with lead
> solder or braze it tight. I once saw (in the late 70's) a crew assembling
> Impalas at the old Janesville assy. plant. They were using a gas torch and 
> what
> looked like soft lead sticks smoothed witha spatula to fill body gaps 
> where the
> roof panel joined the "C" pillar. My experiments with plumbers solder and 
> flux I
> use for sweating copper water pipes have been a failure on sheet metal, 
> Anyone
> on here know what combination of flux and solder that man was using on 
> sheet
> metal??
> Thanks
> Tim '61 Rampy
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