[FC] metal work

[J R Read_HML]

OR... take the dang thing to a radiator shop and let them have at it.

BTW.... I might have a spare FC tank in the garage.  No idea of condition at 
this time.

Later, JR

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "noahsarkinc" <noahsarkinc at earthlink.net>
To: <corvanatics at corvair.org>; "Ken Hand" <vairmech at aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: [FC] metal work


> The process is to rough up the base metal with a grinder, and then heat 
> and
> "tin" with acid core 50/50 solder.  Then you wipe a dry cloth across the
> molten solder to give the entire surface a tinned bonding surface.  After
> that you use body solder, 30%tin 70% lead, and heat and paddle it with a
> maple paddle and bees wax to spread it.  You have to get the body solder
> just warm enough to work, but not so hot that it runs.  It takes a long
> time to learn the proper technique, and if you don't do it all the  time,
> you will never become proficient at doing a lead job.  This is where the
> original term "lead sled" comes from.  The old body men were very good at
> applying body solder, and then they would sculp it with a body file.  The
> factory used a hot spray method of applying body solder to seams, and then
> it was worked by the people on the line to get the proper contours. 
> Today,
> it is all but a lost art for the most part.  I learned how to do it in 
> 1962,
> and by 1964, Bondo was taking over for doing lead jobs.   Paul in CT
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ken Hand" <vairmech at aol.com>
> To: <corvanatics at corvair.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 7:52 PM
> Subject: Re: [FC] metal work
>
>
>> ??? The sweating that you are refering to for copper pipes probably will
>> not work with your sheetmetal unless you form a "J" lock of some sort,
>> very dificult to do. The process that you see for the car is probably at
>> the top seam and there is some pretty thick metal right there and it can
>> get pretty warm without warping. Also what they are doing is heating the
>> lead, not solder, to a cooler temp that is just barely in the plastic
>> stage and then sort of smearing it into and onto the area that needs to 
>> be
>> smoothed. This is just a rough verbal sketch of the process, but I think
>> you get the idea.
>>
>> ??? Now, I think there are plans and/or pics on the Corvanatic web site 
>> of
>> a SS gas tank.
>>
>>
>> Ken Hand
>> 248-613-8586
>> www.corvairmechanic.com
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: wern3 at juno.com <wern3 at juno.com>
>> To: corvanatics at corvair.org
>> Sent: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 4:43 pm
>> Subject: [FC] metal work
>>
>>
>>
>> I am assembling a new gas tank from sheet metal to replace the old tank
>> that
>> failed last weekend on my '61 Rampy after I tried to repair it with
>> fiberglass.
>> The plan is to assemllbe it with spot welds, then seal the seams with 
>> lead
>> solder or braze it tight. I once saw (in the late 70's) a crew assembling
>> Impalas at the old Janesville assy. plant. They were using a gas torch 
>> and
>> what
>> looked like soft lead sticks smoothed witha spatula to fill body gaps
>> where the
>> roof panel joined the "C" pillar. My experiments with plumbers solder and
>> flux I
>> use for sweating copper water pipes have been a failure on sheet metal,
>> Anyone
>> on here know what combination of flux and solder that man was using on
>> sheet
>> metal??
>> Thanks
>> Tim '61 Rampy
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>
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