[FC] metal work

Dennis Dorogi dfamily at fairpoint.net
Tue Jul 8 21:05:41 EDT 2008


I wanted to put the later type through the tank shifter in my rampside so I 
cut up a rusty later style tank to get the sections I needed and welded them 
in my solid earlier style tank.  I mig welded the seams carefully and used 
JB Weld epoxy over the welded seams and sealed the inside of the tank with 
sealer from Clarks.  The advantage of doing this is that you can sandblast 
the inside of the tank so that the sealer adheres very well.  It might be 
easier to cut out the rusty sections, (clean the tank properly first) and 
weld in new pieces, and seal the tank.  I think it would be easier than 
making a new tank but I guess that depends on how bad your tank is.    I did 
my tank over 6 years ago and it has been fine - no leaks.  Dennis Dorogi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <wern3 at juno.com>
To: <corvanatics at corvair.org>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 4:43 PM
Subject: [FC] metal work


>I am assembling a new gas tank from sheet metal to replace the old tank 
>that failed last weekend on my '61 Rampy after I tried to repair it with 
>fiberglass. The plan is to assemllbe it with spot welds, then seal the 
>seams with lead solder or braze it tight. I once saw (in the late 70's) a 
>crew assembling Impalas at the old Janesville assy. plant. They were using 
>a gas torch and what looked like soft lead sticks smoothed witha spatula to 
>fill body gaps where the roof panel joined the "C" pillar. My experiments 
>with plumbers solder and flux I use for sweating copper water pipes have 
>been a failure on sheet metal, Anyone on here know what combination of flux 
>and solder that man was using on sheet metal??
> Thanks
> Tim '61 Rampy
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