[FC] '61 Rampside conversion EXPLAINED (dont do it)

[N2VZD at aol.com]

the correct rear  mount for an FC is not the same as an AC car.   the fc l
ate mount looks flat until you really look at it...it has a very slight  
needed dish , so you can get the belt off.  please look closely at the  picture 
.this is a correct 64 - 65 FC 110hp mount.
note the slight dish to it.  it only ends up being @1/4 inch  offset.  but 
without it ,i doubt you will be able to change the  belt...

all FC transmission  mounts are longer than cars. i have seen  desperate 
measures taken to build FC mounts from car stuff that are not  safe. 
 sorry i don't have a picture handy right this moment.
i have even drilled/ slotted  car transmission mounts to add cooler  
fittings to powerglides.
off to a corvair club dinner..
regards, tim colson
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 1/9/2011 10:37:17 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, jld at wk.net 
 writes:

Heartily  agree.  When using a 64 and later crankshaft (2 and 15/16" 
stroke)  you should always use an harmonic balancer.  The rear engine 
mount  for the 61-63 cars with air conditioning and all 64 cars has room 
to  accommodate this balancer (and room for the additional sheave to 
drive the  air conditioner.  61-63 FC's do NOT have sufficient length in 
the  engine bay to accomidate the extra length of this style engine  
mount.  It is necessary to section 1.15" out of the rear structure of  
the FC in the engine bay to make sufficient room to make it all fit.   As 
for front engine mounts,  the 61-63 4-sp are quite different from  the 
64-65 4-sp mounts both in its shape and how it mounts to the  
transmission (P/G are the same for all years).  See the Clarks used  
parts catalog or the P&A 30C for the differences.

On 1/9/2011  5:34 AM, N2VZD at aol.com wrote:
> 64 65 rear mount is different! car mount  will drive alignment guy  nuts
> bringing things to spec. i have a  picture of the correct mount , it 
looks  like
> the flat one with a  slight dish to it. it is hard to put a belt on with 
the
>    older flat one. i have seen guys space a flat one out with washers ,  
but
> it does  not look like a good way to go.
> see the  picture included of the correct (rare) mount for a 164 motor in 
an
>  FC.
>
>
>
>>    Do I need an FC rear  engine
>> mount or a early  car mount or something else?
>  The rear mount from the '64 car engine in  your Rampside may be  exactly
> what
> you need, but it will have to be compared   to another known part to be
> sure.  Other people on this list  can  specifically answer this
> question.  What you want in an  early mount  (actually the stamped metal
> bracket attached to the  rear of the engine) with  enough offset to clear
> the
>  harmonic balancer that should be fitted on the  110  engine.
>
>>   What about the speedo-cable?
> A  '65 car  differential can be milled to accept the speedometer  cable
> drive.  I  have the plans and a fixture for doing this  because I wanted 
to
> make a  correct replacement differential for  the one in our '65
> Greenbrier.   This modification requires  complete disassembly and
> rebuilding
> you must use early side  bearing adjuster sleeves and early pinion  shaft!
> late  differentials had a different carrier (nubs stuck out further  ,  so
> sleeves were out over 1/4 inch towards axles. the pictures of my  
attempts  to
> do this years back may still be available on the web  , or this computer 
with
> a lot of searching.
> of the  differential. and changing the  pinion shaft to get the speedo  
gear
> teeth on it. you also  have to have early guts complete.not  worth the
> effort.
>
>>    Would it be easier  if i just located another  early
>> trans-axle?   YES!!!!
> Make sure  to also get a FC 4-speed front
>  crossmember bracket; it is different than the  3-speed  bracket.
>
> BOTTOM LINE: there is a lot more to this than meets  the  eye , unless you
> have actually done it!
> i did it on  2 vehicles at the same time for several hunderd miles of
>  problems.
> regards, Tim  Colson
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