[NoVa-Corvairs] Question on Transmission Mounts for 64

[63redbrier at cox.net]

Ron:  Thanks for sending the photos!  To relieve some of the overwhelming pressure on AJ, I will write up an article on the auction for the next HAM.  When the bidding started on the Corvairs, it went so quickly that I had trouble writing down the winning prices for some cars!  After purchasing the car, Darrin noticed that it was actually built in LA, and may possibly only have 13,000 miles!  Probably 113,000.  Pedal wear was inconclusive.  Further examination and a compression check may reveal more.  We are going to pick it up on Friday, if you are off that day and would like to help out?  I'm sure Darrin mentioned the $7,000! for what we all believed was the SECOND best Rampside.  Greg 

rvtum at verizon.net wrote: 
> Thanks Curt & Greg!  After going out and taking a look, I think either 
> of these options will work.  I will also remove the leaf spring and pull 
> both axles out our just to make sure I can get enough clearance.  It 
> looks like I'll have to drop it about 1 1/2 inches to clear the mount 
> studs and have room to install the new mounts.  I'm hoping the new 
> mounts will also correct the problem I'm having with excessive tow in on 
> both rear wheels.
> 
> On another note, I've attached some pictures of the estate auction that 
> me, Greg and Darrin attended today in Boonsboro, MD.  There were 15 
> Corvairs of varoius models.  Unfortunately, most were parts cars with 
> the exeption of a 2 EM's, 1 red LM Coupe, attached, that Greg won, and 2 
> Rampside's.  I left before the bidding started, but Darrin & Greg may 
> have more deatils on what appears to have been some truly bizzare 
> bidding on one of the Rampside's.
> 
> Ron
> 
> On Fri, Jan 2, 2009 at  9:30 PM, Curtis Shimp wrote:
> 
> > Ron:
> >
> > This may not be of any use to you but on a late model there are two 
> > ways
> > to do it.  Maybe you can look at your early model to see if either or
> > both is applicable.
> >
> > One, you can do like Greg says, support the trans and take the nuts 
> > off
> > the motor mounts studs that hold the trans bracket to the mounts  Then
> > lower the trans enough to clear the longish motor mount studs. Then 
> > you
> > can unbolt the 2 bolts that hold each motor mount to the frame 
> > bracket. However, I am not sure how much strain you have to put on the 
> > system to
> > clear the longish motor mount bolts.  Two, while supporting the trans 
> > you
> > can unbolt the trans mount bracket and the bolts that hold the bracket 
> > to
> > the motor mounts.  Then you should have clearance to remove the motor
> > mounts without having to lower the trans end of the power train.  Also
> > with this latter approach you may not have to disconnect as much stuff
> > from the suspension and trans.
> > Not sure if you lose any trans fluid on the second approach.
> >
> > Curt
> >
> > On Fri, 02 Jan 2009 13:14:10 -0600 (CST) rvtum at verizon.net writes:
> >> Members,
> >>
> >> Has anyone ever replaced transmission mounts on an EM?  Can they be
> >> replaced without having to drop the entire drivetrain?  I have one 
> >> that is failing, so I thought I'd replace them both.  Thanks!
> >>
> >> Ron
> >> _______________________________________________
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> >>
> >>
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